Beard Oil vs Beard Balm: Which Does Your Beard Need?
Beard oil is mainly for the skin under the beard and the softness of the hair; beard balm does the same job more lightly but adds hold, so it also tames shape. If your beard is short, neat and your main complaint is itch or flaky skin, oil is usually enough. If your beard is medium or long, sticks out in odd directions, or looks frizzy by midday, balm suits you better. Plenty of men with longer beards use both: oil for the skin, a little balm on top for shape. Neither is essential, but most beards feel and look better with one of them.
What is actually in each
The ingredient lists overlap, which is why the two get confused.
- Beard oil is a blend of light plant oils, commonly jojoba, argan, sweet almond or grapeseed, sometimes with a small amount of essential oil for scent. It is liquid, absorbs fairly quickly and leaves little residue.
- Beard balm uses many of the same oils plus a butter (often shea or cocoa) and a wax (usually beeswax or a plant wax). The butter adds richness; the wax gives light hold. It comes in a tin and is solid at room temperature.
There is also beard butter, which sits between the two: rich and soft, with little or no wax and so little hold. For stronger hold than balm, you are into moustache wax, which we cover separately in our guide to moustache wax.
Side by side
| Beard oil | Beard balm | |
|---|---|---|
| Main job | Skin and softness | Softness and shape |
| Hold | None | Light to medium |
| Reaches the skin? | Easily | Less so on thicker beards |
| Best length | Stubble to medium | Medium to long |
| Finish | Slight sheen, can look wet if overused | Natural, more matte |
| Best for | Itch, dry skin, new growth | Flyaways, frizz, wiry hairs |
Choosing by beard length
Stubble and the first few weeks
Oil. The problem at this stage is almost always the skin: new hairs are short and sharp, the skin underneath is dry, and it itches. A few drops of oil help the skin and soften the tips of the hairs. Balm on stubble mostly sits on the surface and does little. If itch is driving you to give up, our piece on beard itch explains why it happens and how long it lasts.
Short, groomed beards (roughly 0.5 to 2cm)
Oil for most men. A short boxed or office beard rarely needs hold; a well-cut shape keeps itself tidy. If you have wiry or curly hairs that spring out, a very small amount of balm on top works.
Medium and long beards
Balm becomes the more useful product. Longer hair needs taming, and the light wax helps it lie in the direction you brush it. The catch is that balm struggles to reach the skin through a dense beard, so many men apply oil to the skin first, then balm to the surface.
Choosing by texture and problem
- Flaky skin under the beard: oil, worked into the skin, combined with proper washing. Persistent flakes may be something else; see our guide to beard dandruff.
- Coarse, wiry or curly hair: balm. The butter softens and the wax persuades the hair to lie down.
- Grey hairs that stick out: balm, usually; grey hair is often coarser.
- Oily or breakout-prone skin: a light oil, used sparingly, or nothing on the skin at all. Heavy butters can feel clogging on oily skin.
- Patchy beard: balm can help direct longer hairs over sparse areas, making the beard look more even.
How to apply them
Beard oil
- Apply after a shower, to a beard that is towel-dry, when the skin is warm and clean.
- Use three to five drops for a short beard, more for a long one.
- Rub between palms, then work fingers upwards against the growth so the oil reaches the skin.
- Smooth down in the direction of growth and comb or brush into shape.
Beard balm
- Scrape a small amount with a thumbnail, about the size of a fingernail to start.
- Warm it between your palms until it melts to an oil.
- Work it through from the neck and cheeks towards the chin, coating the hair rather than the skin.
- Brush or comb into shape; the hold sets as it cools.
The common mistake with both is using too much. Oil overdone looks greasy and transfers to collars; balm overdone looks waxy and feels heavy. Start small and add.
Should you use both?
If your beard is past a couple of centimetres and you have any texture issues, yes. Oil in the morning on clean skin, then a small amount of balm on top for shape. Alternatively, oil at night when hold does not matter and balm in the morning. Short beards rarely need both.
Products versus the cut
Products only refine what the shape gives them. A beard with a clean neckline, considered cheek line and the bulk taken out in the right places will look tidy with a few drops of oil. A beard that has simply been left to grow will look untidy no matter how much balm goes on. At Highgate Cuts, beard work starts with the barber looking at your growth and shape and recommending what to do; ask which product would suit your beard while you are in the chair.
A note on skin: if a product leaves your face red, itchy or sore, stop using it. Essential oils and fragrances can irritate, and the NHS guidance on contact dermatitis explains the signs.
Questions we get asked
Does beard oil make a beard grow faster or thicker?
No. It improves the condition of the skin and the hair you have, which can make the beard look fuller and healthier, but it does not change growth.
How long does a bottle or tin last?
That depends entirely on beard length and how much you use. A short beard uses far less than a long one; most men find either lasts a couple of months or more.
Can I use beard oil on my moustache?
Yes. For shaping a moustache, though, balm or wax works better.
Should I use them every day?
Daily is typical, but if your skin and beard feel comfortable, every other day is fine. Book beard work through our barber page, or learn more about The Highgate House.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
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The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
