Clay, Wax, Pomade or Paste? Choosing the Right Hair Product
The right hair product depends on two things: how much hold you need and how much shine you want. Clay gives strong hold with a matte, natural finish and suits short to medium cuts and fine hair that needs body. Paste sits in the middle: medium hold, low shine, easy to restyle. Wax is firm and slightly tacky, good for defined, piecey texture. Pomade gives shine and a smooth, combed finish, ideal for side partings and slick styles. Match the product to your hair type and cut, use less than you think, and most styling problems disappear.
The two scales that matter: hold and shine
Product labels are full of words like “fibre”, “cream” and “putty”, and brands use them inconsistently. Ignore most of it. What you actually need to know is where a product sits on two scales:
- Hold: how firmly it keeps hair in place, from light (hair moves freely) to strong (hair stays where you put it all day).
- Shine: from matte (looks like no product at all) to high shine (wet look).
Every product category is really just a typical position on those two scales.
| Product | Typical hold | Typical shine | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Clay | Medium to strong | Matte | Textured crops, messy styles, fine hair needing volume |
| Paste | Medium | Low to medium | Everyday styles, short to medium hair, restyling during the day |
| Wax | Medium to strong | Low to medium | Defined pieces, shorter thick hair, spiky texture |
| Pomade | Light to strong | Medium to high | Side partings, slick backs, pompadours, comb overs |
| Cream | Light | Natural | Longer or curly hair, taming frizz without stiffness |
Clay: the most forgiving all-rounder
Clay products usually contain a mineral clay such as kaolin or bentonite, which absorbs a little oil and gives the hair a grippy, thicker texture. That is why clay suits fine or thinning hair: it makes each strand feel fuller and helps the style hold its height without looking wet.
The downside is that clay can feel dry, and on very thick or coarse hair it may not be enough to control bulk. If you are new to it, our guide on how to use hair clay goes through the application step by step.
Paste: the easy middle ground
Paste is softer and more pliable than clay or wax. It spreads easily, gives a natural finish with a hint of sheen, and lets you rework your hair during the day with your fingers. If you have a short to medium cut and simply want it to look tidy and deliberate, paste is often the right answer. It is the product we most often suggest to men who have never used anything.
Wax: definition and separation
Wax is firmer and tackier. It is good at separating hair into defined pieces, which is what gives a textured crop or short spiky style its shape. On thick hair it holds well. On fine hair, too much wax weighs strands down and clumps them together, exposing the scalp. Some waxes are also harder to wash out, so a second shampoo may be needed.
Pomade: shine and control
Pomade is the traditional choice for classic, combed styles. It gives smooth control and a polished shine. There are two main types:
- Oil-based pomade: strong, long-lasting, can be restyled all day, but takes effort to wash out.
- Water-based pomade: washes out easily, often dries firmer, and is the more practical choice for most people.
We compare them in detail in water-based vs oil-based pomade.
Matching product to your hair type
Your hair matters as much as the style. As a rough guide:
- Fine or thinning hair: clay or a light paste. Avoid heavy wax and oily pomade, which flatten and separate.
- Thick, straight hair: wax or a stronger clay. Light products will give up by lunchtime.
- Wavy hair: paste or a light cream to define the movement without stiffness.
- Curly or coily hair: creams and leave-in moisturisers rather than dry clays, which can make curls frizzy.
- Coarse hair: pomade or a softer wax to smooth and control.
How to apply it properly
- Start with towel-dried or fully dry hair. Clay and paste work best on dry or almost dry hair. Water-based pomade can go on slightly damp hair.
- Take a small amount. Roughly the size of a fingertip for short hair. You can always add more.
- Warm it between your palms until it is almost invisible on your hands.
- Work it in from the back to the front, roots first, so you do not dump it all on your fringe.
- Shape with fingers or a comb, depending on the finish you want.
- Adjust only the pieces that need it. Overworking flattens the style.
The most common mistake we see is too much product. Hair looks greasy, flat and clumped, and the man assumes the product is wrong. Usually it is the amount.
The cut comes first
No product will rescue a cut that does not suit your hair. Products are there to finish a shape, not create one. If your hair will not sit right no matter what you use, the problem is likely bulk, weight distribution or length in the wrong places. That is something a barber fixes with scissors and clippers. At Highgate Cuts, every visit starts with an assessment: the barber looks at your hair and what you need, then makes recommendations, which can include the product and amount that suits your cut. If you are not sure your current cut is helping, a visit to our barbers in Highgate is a good chance to ask what weight and length would suit the product you prefer. Ask your barber to show you how they finish it, too. Watching the technique is often more useful than any label.
Questions we get asked
What is the best hair product for a natural look?
A matte clay or a low-shine paste, used sparingly. Neither leaves an obvious shine.
Can I mix two products?
Yes. Barbers often combine a pre-styler or cream with a clay or paste for extra control. Keep both amounts small.
Does hair product cause hair loss?
There is no good evidence that normal styling products cause hair loss. Wash product out regularly to keep the scalp clean. If you notice changes in your hairline, speak to your GP.
Why does my hair look flat by midday?
Usually the hold is too light for your hair, or you used too much and the weight dragged it down. Try a stronger clay in a smaller amount.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
Visit The Highgate House · The barbers
The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
