Haircuts for a Diamond Face Shape: Softening Wide Cheekbones

A diamond face is widest across the cheekbones, with a narrower forehead and a narrower, often pointed chin. The haircuts that suit it add a little width or fullness at the forehead and temples, keep the sides from being cut too tight at cheekbone level, and often use a fringe or textured front. A textured fringe, a side-swept crop, a classic taper with some weight left above the ears, or a medium-length cut that covers the temples all work well. The cuts that tend to work against a diamond face are high skin fades with a tall, narrow quiff, which leave the cheekbones as the widest point by a long way and make the forehead look narrower still.

Recognising a diamond face

Diamond faces are the least common shape, and they are often mistaken for oval or heart shapes. The giveaways:

• The cheekbones are clearly the widest part of the face, often high and prominent.
• The forehead is noticeably narrower than the cheekbones, sometimes with the hairline narrowing at the temples.
• The chin is narrow and can be pointed.
• The face is longer than it is wide.

A heart-shaped face has a wide forehead tapering to a narrow chin; a diamond face has a narrow forehead and a narrow chin, with the width concentrated in the middle. If you are unsure, our guide to measuring your face shape will settle it in a few minutes.

What a good cut does for a diamond face

The underlying idea is simple: bring the forehead and jaw closer in width to the cheekbones, so the face reads as more balanced.

1. Add width at the forehead. A fringe, or hair that comes forward and slightly out at the temples, fills in the narrowest point at the top.
2. Do not hollow out the temples. Very short hair at the temples and high on the sides exaggerates the cheekbones.
3. Keep moderate height. Some volume on top is fine, but a tall, narrow shape lengthens the face and points the top, adding to the diamond effect.
4. Use texture. Soft, broken edges look better than hard, geometric lines on most diamond faces.
5. Consider the chin. A beard can add width to a narrow chin and jaw, which helps balance the whole face.

Cuts that work well

Textured fringe

A short, choppy fringe brought forward onto the forehead adds width exactly where it is needed and softens the face. Sides kept short but not skin, with a little weight above the ears. This is one of the most reliable choices. If you have never worn a fringe, our post on whether a fringe will suit you covers the practicalities.

Side-swept crop

A crop with a fringe swept to one side rather than straight forward. The diagonal line across the forehead adds width and breaks up the symmetry of the diamond. It looks smart and grows out without fuss.

Classic taper

A scissor-cut or low taper leaves a little more fullness at the temples and above the ears than a fade, which keeps the cheekbones from standing out too strongly. Paired with a short side parting, it is a dependable, professional look.

Medium length with layers

Hair long enough to sit around the ears and cover the temples, with layers to stop it from going flat or wide at the wrong point. Diamond faces often carry longer hair well, because the cheekbones give the face definition even under more hair.

Messy, forward-styled top

If you like a bit of volume, push it forwards and slightly to the side rather than straight up. You get the movement without the height.

Cuts to approach with care

• High skin fade with a tall quiff. Narrow at the sides, tall on top, which sharpens every point of the diamond.
• Slicked-back hair. It exposes the narrow forehead completely.
• Very short buzz cuts. No hair to balance anything.
• Centre partings with flat hair. They narrow the top of the head further.

As always, these are tendencies rather than rules. A good barber can adapt most styles: a lower fade, a quiff swept forward, a buzz with a slightly longer front.

Briefing your barber

Every visit at Highgate Cuts starts with an assessment. The barber looks at your hair, how it grows and what you need, then makes recommendations. To make that conversation efficient:

1. Tell them what bothers you, if anything: “My cheekbones look very wide with short sides.”
2. Say how you feel about a fringe. Many men with diamond faces are surprised how much it helps.
3. Agree on the side length, and specifically how short at the temples.
4. Agree the top length and which way it should go.
5. Ask how to dry and style it so the shape holds.

The barbers at Highgate Cuts do skin fades, scissor cuts and beard work, so any of the options above can be done and adjusted as you go.

Beards, sideburns and glasses

Because a diamond face narrows at the chin, a beard can add useful width at the bottom. A short, full beard kept slightly squarer at the jaw, or a beard that is a little fuller at the chin, creates a broader base. Keep the cheek line fairly low so the beard does not add to the cheekbone width.

Sideburns help too. Kept at mid-ear length and not trimmed too thin, they add a little width at the temples. Our guide to sideburn length and shape explains how to keep them even.

For glasses, frames with a strong top line, such as browline or rectangular frames, add width at the brow and tend to suit diamond faces well.

Styling and upkeep

Most cuts for a diamond face rely on the front sitting forwards or to the side. Dry the hair in that direction with a hairdryer and a little help from your fingers, then use a matte paste or cream to add texture. A shiny, rigid finish tends to make edges look harder.

Because these cuts keep more weight at the sides, they usually grow out gracefully. Four to six weeks between visits suits most people. If the fringe starts falling in your eyes, a quick fringe tidy is easy to arrange.

Questions we get asked

What haircut suits a diamond face best?

A textured fringe or side-swept crop with sides not cut too short at the temples is the most reliable starting point.

Should I get a fade with a diamond face?

A low fade or taper usually works. A high skin fade often makes the cheekbones look wider.

Is a diamond face rare?

It is less common than oval or square, and often misread as one of them. Measuring properly helps.

How do I book?

Email us with the service and the day that suits. For prices, see the barber menu or email us. Services are on our Highgate barber page, and the homepage covers the rest of The Highgate House.

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