Haircuts for a Long or Oblong Face: Keeping Height in Check
A long or oblong face is noticeably longer than it is wide, often with a tall forehead, straight sides and a longer chin. The cuts that suit it best keep the top moderate rather than tall, leave a little more weight at the sides than a high skin fade would, and often bring some hair forward onto the forehead. A textured crop, a classic side parting with scissor-cut sides, a Caesar or a short, forward-styled fringe all work well. The main thing to avoid is the combination that is fashionable right now: very high, tight sides and a tall quiff, which stretches a long face even further.
How to tell if your face is long
Measure, or at least look properly. A long face has forehead, cheekbones and jaw at roughly similar widths, like a square or rectangle, but the length is clearly greater, often by a third or more. Compared with an oval face, the sides are straighter and the chin can be more prominent. If you are not sure which shape you have, our step-by-step guide to working out your face shape shows you how to measure it in a mirror.
It is worth saying that a long face is not a problem to be solved. Many men with long faces look very sharp in a suit. The goal of a good cut is balance, so the hair is not exaggerating the length.
The principles that make the difference
- Moderate height. Some lift is fine. A tall, vertical shape on top adds length the face does not need.
- Some weight at the sides. Sides cut with scissors, or a low fade or taper that keeps more length above the ears, add width and shorten the overall outline.
- A fringe or forward movement. Hair that comes onto the forehead shortens the visible length of the face. Even a short, textured fringe has a strong effect.
- Horizontal lines. A side parting, a fringe edge or a squared front all draw the eye across the face rather than up and down it.
- Avoid pulling everything back. Slicked-back styles expose the full height of the forehead.
Cuts that suit a long face
Textured crop
Short sides (kept a little fuller than skin), a top of three to six centimetres pushed forwards, and a short fringe. The forward direction shortens the face and the texture adds a little width. It is low maintenance and works on most hair types.
Classic side parting with scissor-cut sides
The traditional British office cut is one of the best options. The parting adds a horizontal line, and scissor-cut sides keep a little width. Ask for the top to be swept to the side rather than up.
The Caesar and the French crop
Both bring a straight fringe forward onto the forehead, which reduces visible face length immediately. The Caesar is shorter and neater; the French crop has a slightly longer, more textured top. Our comparison of the French crop and the Caesar explains the difference.
Medium-length, side-swept hair
The longer, floppy British look, with hair sweeping across the forehead and covering the tops of the ears, can suit a long face very well. The width at the sides and the fringe both help. It needs regular shaping to stay deliberate rather than overgrown.
Low fade or taper
If you want a fade, keep it low. A low taper cleans up the neckline and around the ears while leaving width higher up. A high skin fade removes all of that width at once.
What to avoid, or at least think twice about
- Tall quiffs and pompadours. Lovely on round faces, less so on long ones.
- High and skin fades. They narrow the head right where you need a bit of width.
- Very short buzz cuts all over. They expose the full face shape with nothing to balance it.
- Long hair with no layering. Straight hair hanging past the jaw drags the face down visually.
- Slicked-back hair. It shows the full height of the forehead and adds length.
If you love one of these, a skilled barber can often adapt it: a lower quiff, a softer fade, a fringe left slightly longer. Do not rule things out without asking.
What to say to your barber
At Highgate Cuts every visit begins with an assessment. The barber looks at your hair and what you need, then makes recommendations. A clear brief from you speeds that up:
- “I think my face is quite long. I want to keep the height down.”
- “Please leave a bit of weight at the sides. Not too high or tight.”
- “I am happy to have some hair coming forward at the front.” (Or tell them you are not.)
- Show how much length you want to keep on top using your fingers.
- Ask how to style it so it does not stand up.
Bring a reference photo of someone with a similar face shape if you can. Pictures of a model with a completely different face are less useful than you think. You can see what the barbers at Highgate Cuts offer on our services page.
Beards and long faces
Facial hair matters as much as the cut. A beard that is fuller on the cheeks and kept shorter at the chin adds width and shortens the face. A long, pointed beard does the opposite. Stubble or a short boxed beard is a safe middle ground. There is more detail in our guide to beard styles for a long face.
Sideburns are worth a thought too. Squared, mid-length sideburns create a horizontal break at the side of the face. Shaving them off completely can make the face look narrower.
Styling at home
Most long-face cuts are designed to sit forwards or to the side, so dry the hair in that direction. Use a hairdryer on a low setting, pushing the hair where you want it, then work in a small amount of matte product with your fingertips. Avoid lifting the front with a round brush. If your hair naturally stands up at the crown, ask the barber to leave a little extra weight there so it lies flat.
Timing matters less than with a high fade, because sides with more weight grow out gracefully. Four to six weeks between cuts is typical, depending on how quickly your hair grows.
Questions we get asked
Should a man with a long face have a fringe?
Usually a fringe helps, as it shortens the visible length. It does not need to be heavy; a short textured fringe is enough.
Can I have a fade with a long face?
Yes, but a low fade or taper usually works better than a high one.
Does a beard make a long face look longer?
A long, pointed beard does. A beard kept fuller on the cheeks and shorter at the chin balances it.
How do I book?
Email us with the service and a day that suits. For prices, see the barber menu or email us. Our Highgate barbershop page lists the services, and the homepage covers the whole of The Highgate House.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
Visit The Highgate House · The barbers
The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
