How Often Should Men Exfoliate, and With What?
Most men should exfoliate their face once or twice a week. Oily, congested skin can usually take two or three times; dry or sensitive skin is often better at once a week or less. If you wet shave every day, you are already exfoliating each time the blade passes, so you may need far less than the packaging suggests. As for what to use, a gentle chemical exfoliant, such as a salicylic acid or lactic acid product, is generally kinder than a gritty scrub, and less is more. Stop if your skin turns tight, red or stings.
What exfoliating actually does
Your skin sheds dead cells from its outer layer continuously. Sometimes they build up, particularly on oily or sun-exposed skin, and the surface looks dull, feels rough, and pores around the nose clog more easily. Exfoliating helps clear that layer.
There are two ways to do it:
- Physical exfoliation uses friction: a scrub with grains, a textured cloth, a brush.
- Chemical exfoliation uses mild acids or enzymes to loosen the bonds between dead cells so they come away without scrubbing. The common ones are salicylic acid (a BHA) and glycolic or lactic acid (AHAs).
Neither is magic, and both can irritate if overused. The aim is a smoother, clearer surface, not a red, raw one.
How often, by skin type
| Skin type | How often | What tends to suit |
|---|---|---|
| Oily, shiny by midday, blackheads | 2 to 3 times a week | Salicylic acid (BHA), which works inside oily pores |
| Normal or combination | 1 to 2 times a week | Lactic acid or a mild scrub with fine, rounded grains |
| Dry, flaky, tight after washing | Once a week or less | Lactic acid at a low strength; skip scrubs |
| Sensitive or easily red | Once a week at most; start fortnightly | The mildest product you can find; patch test first |
| Daily wet shaver | Once a week, on a non-shave day if possible | Gentle chemical exfoliant away from the shave |
These are starting points. Skin changes with the season: London winters, central heating and cold wind leave many men drier from November to March, when cutting back is sensible. Our guide to dry skin in winter covers that season in more detail.
Scrub or acid: an honest comparison
Scrubs feel satisfying and work instantly, which is why men tend to reach for them. The downside is that it is easy to press too hard, and harsh grains with jagged edges can scratch the surface. If you like a scrub, choose one with fine, smooth particles, use fingertips with very light pressure, and spend no more than about thirty seconds on the face.
Acid exfoliants sound alarming but are usually the gentler choice when used correctly. They come as toners, pads, serums or cleansers. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it suits blackheads and oily skin; lactic acid is milder and suits drier skin; glycolic acid is stronger and more likely to sting. Start with a low-strength product and a low frequency.
One at a time. Using a scrub, then an acid toner, then a retinoid on the same night is the commonest way men end up with irritated skin. Pick one exfoliant.
How exfoliating fits around shaving
This is where men’s routines differ most from generic advice. A razor blade removes a layer of surface skin along with the hair. A daily wet shaver is, in effect, already exfoliating the beard area daily. Adding a scrub on top can tip the skin into irritation and razor burn.
- Do not use an acid exfoliant right before shaving. It leaves skin more sensitive to the blade.
- Do not exfoliate straight after shaving. Freshly shaved skin is at its most vulnerable.
- A light scrub the night before a shave can help some men by lifting hairs and clearing dead skin that traps them, which may help with ingrown hairs. If it irritates you, stop.
- If you have a beard, the skin underneath still sheds. A gentle cleanse and a beard brush do most of the work; an acid on the cheeks above the beard line is fine.
A hot towel shave at the barber includes careful preparation of the skin, so do not exfoliate the same morning. You can read about our shaves and grooming on the barber services page.
A simple weekly routine
- Choose one exfoliating evening (two if your skin is oily). Make it a non-shave day if you can.
- Cleanse with a gentle face wash and pat dry.
- Apply the exfoliant as directed, avoiding the eye area and lips.
- Follow with a plain, fragrance-free moisturiser.
- Use sunscreen the next morning. Acid exfoliants, particularly AHAs, can make skin more sensitive to the sun.
- Watch your skin for two weeks before increasing anything.
Signs you are overdoing it
- Skin feels tight or stings when you apply moisturiser.
- Redness that lingers for hours.
- A shiny, almost waxy look, which can mean the surface has been stripped.
- Flaking in patches, or new spots appearing.
- Shaving suddenly hurts more than usual.
If you see these, stop exfoliating for a week or two, use only a gentle cleanser and moisturiser, and restart at half the frequency. If you have a skin condition such as eczema, rosacea or acne that is being treated, check with your GP or pharmacist before adding an exfoliant, as some products can make these worse.
Questions we get asked
Can men exfoliate every day?
Some daily cleansers contain a low level of acid and are designed for it, but for most men daily scrubbing or strong acids are too much, especially alongside daily shaving.
Does exfoliating help with ingrown hairs?
Gentle, regular exfoliation can help by clearing dead skin that traps hairs, and it is a common recommendation. It works best alongside better shaving technique. Our post on ingrown hairs after shaving covers the full picture.
Morning or evening?
Evening is usually better, particularly for acid exfoliants, as skin has the night to settle and you are not heading straight into sun and wind.
Should I exfoliate my scalp too?
Only if you have build-up from products or flaking that a normal wash does not shift. It is a separate topic with different products, and the Highgate Cuts barbers can tell you at your assessment whether your scalp needs it.
Book with The Highgate House
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