The Peaky Blinders Haircut: The Disconnected Cut and Its History
The Peaky Blinders haircut is a disconnected cut: the sides and back are clipped very short, often close to the skin, while the top is left noticeably longer, with no blending between the two. The top is usually swept back or to one side. It is based on working-class men’s hair in early 20th-century Britain and was made famous again by the BBC drama about a Birmingham gang. To ask for a wearable version, say “short disconnected sides, length on top, no fade into the top”, then decide how harsh you want the line. Below: where the look really comes from, how it is cut, and how to adapt it for an office.
The real Peaky Blinders
The Peaky Blinders were a real street gang in Birmingham in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The television series, which began in 2013, borrows the name and the look but sets its story after the First World War and is largely fiction.
The famous story that the gang sewed razor blades into the peaks of their caps is, according to historians who have studied the period, very likely a myth. Disposable razor blades were not cheap or widely available in the gang’s heyday. The more probable explanation of the name is plainer: “peaky” for the peaked flat caps, and “blinder” as slang of the time for someone strikingly well dressed.
The haircut belongs to the same era and the same class. Close-cropped sides were practical: they were quick to cut, easy to keep clean, and long associated with discouraging head lice. Hair on top was kept longer and pushed back with water, oil or pomade. It was not a fashion statement then. It was simply how many men had their hair cut, and it was later reinforced by military haircuts during the war.
What makes the cut “disconnected”
Most modern short cuts are blended. A fade or a taper moves gradually from short at the neck to longer at the top, so there is no visible step. A disconnected cut deliberately skips that blend.
| Blended (fade or taper) | Disconnected (Peaky style) | |
|---|---|---|
| Sides | Gradual change in length | One short length, or very nearly so |
| Transition to the top | Smooth, invisible | A clear step or shelf |
| Top | Any length | Usually long enough to sweep back or across |
| Grows out | Softly | The step becomes more obvious as the sides grow |
It shares DNA with the undercut, and the two terms are often used for the same thing. If you are weighing them up, read our guide to the undercut and fade vs undercut for the difference in practice.
How the barber cuts it
- Assessment. At Highgate Cuts every visit starts with the barber looking at your hair, head shape and growth patterns. A disconnected cut shows the shape of your head clearly, so this matters more than usual.
- Setting the line. The barber decides where the sides stop and the top begins, usually around the widest part of the head, the parietal ridge. Too high and the top looks like a cap of hair; too low and the effect is lost.
- Clipping the sides and back. Usually a single short guard, sometimes taken to skin at the very bottom. Truly authentic versions are close all the way up.
- Cutting the top. Scissors, keeping enough length to sweep back or across. The barber will often remove bulk so it lies flat rather than puffing up.
- Finishing. Neckline and around the ears cleaned up, then the top styled with product so you can see how it is meant to sit.
Expect it to take roughly the same time as a standard short back and sides with scissor work on top.
Is it right for you?
It suits
- Straight or slightly wavy hair with reasonable thickness on top.
- Fairly even head shapes, since short sides show every bump.
- Men who are happy to use product. The top rarely sits correctly without it.
Think twice if
- You have very tight curls on top. They will not lie back in the classic way, though a curly variation with short sides can still look good.
- You are thinning at the crown. Longer hair swept back over a thin area tends to draw attention to it.
- You want to go many weeks between cuts. The step becomes awkward as the sides grow.
Wearable versions for everyday life
The full screen version, with a harsh line and very slicked hair, reads as costume in most offices. Three adjustments make it wearable:
- Soften the line slightly. Ask the barber to keep the disconnection but take the hard edge off with scissors. You keep the shape without the shelf.
- Leave a little more on the sides. A slightly longer guard looks less severe and grows out more kindly.
- Use a matt product instead of high shine. A clay or paste gives the same swept-back shape with a modern finish. Our slicked-back hair guide covers both finishes.
If you are not sure which version suits you, our Archway Road barbers in Highgate can talk you through it at the assessment.
Keeping it sharp
Because the look relies on contrast, it fades quickly. Most men need the sides redone every two to four weeks. The top can usually go longer. In between, avoid trimming the sides at home unless you are confident; an uneven line is very visible on this cut. A quick side tidy at our barbers on Archway Road is a safer way to keep the contrast crisp. Style the top on damp hair, combed back, then let it dry or use a hairdryer on a low setting to set it before adding product.
Questions we get asked
What do I ask for to get the Thomas Shelby haircut?
“Very short sides and back, disconnected from a longer top, swept back.” Bring a photo, ideally from the side, and say how severe you want the line.
Is the Peaky Blinders haircut the same as an undercut?
Very close. Both disconnect the top from the sides. “Peaky Blinders” usually implies a longer top worn swept back with a period feel.
How long does my hair need to be on top?
Long enough to comb back and stay put. The barber will tell you at the assessment if you need to grow it for a few weeks first.
Can I grow it out?
Yes, but the step will be visible for a while. A barber can blend the sides gradually over two or three visits.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
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The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
