Purple Shampoo for Grey Hair: Do Men Need It and How to Use It

Purple shampoo is a toning shampoo with violet pigment in it. Violet sits opposite yellow on the colour wheel, so a small deposit of violet cancels out the yellow or brassy tinge that grey, white and very light hair can pick up. Most men with grey hair do not need it every wash, or at all. It is worth using if your grey or white hair has started to look yellow, dull or slightly nicotine-stained, particularly at the front. Use it once a week or so, in place of your normal shampoo, and leave it on for a couple of minutes. Overuse is the main risk: leave it too long or use it too often and pale hair can take on a faint lilac tint.

Silver shampoo and blue shampoo are close relatives. Silver is usually just a marketing name for a purple toner; blue shampoo targets orange tones in darker or lightened brown hair.

Why grey hair goes yellow

Grey hair has no pigment of its own, which makes it the hair most likely to show any colour it picks up from outside. Common culprits:

• Product build-up. Some waxes, pomades and oils carry a yellowish tint, and build up over time.
• Hard water. Much of London has hard water. Mineral deposits can leave light hair dull and slightly discoloured.
• Smoke. Cigarette smoke stains light hair yellow, as it stains anything pale.
• Sun. Prolonged sun exposure can affect the tone of light hair.
• Heat styling. High heat from straighteners or a very hot dryer can scorch pale hair slightly.
• Swimming. Pool chemicals can leave light hair with an odd cast.

The fix depends on the cause. A purple shampoo masks yellow. It does not remove build-up, which is why some men find it does little. If build-up is the issue, a clarifying shampoo every few weeks often helps more; we cover that in our guide to clarifying shampoo for men.

Who actually needs it

Your hair	Purple shampoo?
Mostly dark with a few greys	No. It will make no visible difference.
Salt and pepper, looks clean and bright	Not needed. Use occasionally if you like.
Grey or white with a yellow tinge	Yes, once a week to start.
Bleached blond or platinum	Yes, often essential to keep it cool-toned.
Grey beard that looks yellow around the mouth	Possibly, with care around the skin.

How to use purple shampoo

1. Wet your hair thoroughly. Damp hair absorbs pigment unevenly, which can leave patches.
2. Use a small amount. Short hair needs no more than a coin-sized blob. Wear gloves if you want to avoid purple-tinted fingers.
3. Work it in evenly. Spread it through the hair from front to back, paying attention to the yellowest areas.
4. Leave it on. Start with one or two minutes. Check the product instructions; some are stronger than others.
5. Rinse well. Lukewarm or cool water until it runs clear.
6. Condition. Toning shampoos can be slightly drying. A normal conditioner afterwards keeps the hair soft.

Use it instead of your normal shampoo on the day you tone, not in addition. Our guide on how to wash hair properly covers technique for the other days.

How often

Start at once a week. If the yellow is still there after a few washes, try leaving it on a minute longer, or use it twice a week. If your hair starts to look slightly blue, violet or flat grey, cut back. Most men with grey hair settle into once every week or two. Bleached hair may need it more often.

Common mistakes

• Leaving it on too long. Ten minutes on white hair can leave a lilac tint. It usually washes out over a few normal washes.
• Using it every day. Hair gradually looks dull and grey-violet rather than bright.
• Expecting it to cover grey. It tones; it does not colour. If you want less grey, that is a different conversation, which we cover in grey blending for men.
• Ignoring build-up. Toner sits on top of residue. Clarify first if hair feels coated.
• Using it on the face carelessly. On a beard, keep contact brief and rinse thoroughly. Stop if your skin reacts.

As with any cosmetic product, if you get itching, redness or soreness on the scalp, stop using it. If a reaction is severe or does not settle, see a pharmacist or your GP. The NHS has general advice on contact dermatitis, which covers reactions to products.

What else keeps grey hair looking good

Toning is only one part. Grey hair often has a coarser, wirier texture, and it looks its best when it is cut regularly and kept in good condition. A few points:

• Use a conditioner. Grey hair can feel dry.
• Choose matte, clear styling products rather than heavy coloured waxes.
• Keep the shape tidy. Grey shows untidiness more than dark hair does.
• Match the beard. A bright head with a yellowed beard looks odd; a gentle beard wash and the same occasional toning help.

At Highgate Cuts, every visit starts with an assessment of your hair and what you need. If your grey is looking flat or tired, we will tell you whether it is the cut, the condition or the tone, and give you a straight recommendation. Grey hair that is well cut and well looked after reads as distinguished, not old. You can see the barber menu or email us to book.

Questions we get asked

Will purple shampoo turn my hair purple?

Not if used as directed. Left too long on very pale hair, it can leave a faint lilac tint that fades with normal washing.

Is men’s purple shampoo different from women’s?

Usually only in packaging and fragrance. The toning principle is the same.

Can I use it on my beard?

Yes, briefly and with a thorough rinse. Skin around the mouth can be sensitive.

Does it work on salt and pepper hair?

It brightens the grey strands slightly. Most men with salt and pepper hair see a small difference at most.

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