Thick, Straight East Asian Hair: Cuts That Control Volume
Thick, straight hair of the kind common in East Asian heritage tends to grow out from the scalp rather than lie flat, so the classic problems are sides that puff out, a crown that sticks up and a fringe that sits like a shelf. The cuts that work control that with three things: sides kept short or cut so the hair underneath is removed (a two block or a taper), weight taken out of the top with texturising rather than simply cutting it shorter, and a style that works with the hair’s direction rather than against it. A barber who is comfortable with this hair type will spend more time removing bulk than removing length.
Why this hair behaves the way it does
Hair type varies enormously within any group, so this is a description of a hair type, not of everyone. Hair that many people of East Asian heritage have in common tends to be:
- Thick in diameter. Each strand is relatively wide and stiff.
- Straight. Very little natural wave to help it bend and lie down.
- Dense. Often a lot of hairs per square centimetre.
- Growing at a steep angle from the scalp, especially at the crown and sides.
Put those together and the hair acts like a brush: stiff strands that stand out from the head instead of falling against it. The longer it gets, the more it holds its shape away from the scalp. That is why a cut that looks sleek in a photo of a different hair type can turn into a helmet after a week.
The cuts that work
The two block
The defining feature of a two block is that the sides and back are cut short underneath while the top is left longer and allowed to fall over them, without blending the two. The longer hair covers the short section and sits close to the head because there is no bulk underneath pushing it out. It is very popular for this hair type for exactly that reason. Our guide to the two block haircut explains how it differs from a Western undercut.
Textured crop with a low fade or taper
Short sides, a forward-falling top with plenty of texture. The texture breaks the “shelf” effect at the fringe. Keep the fade low to medium so the sides do not look too stark against dark, dense hair.
Side part with a taper
A classic office cut that works well if the top is thinned properly. The parting gives the hair a direction to fall in, which thick straight hair otherwise lacks.
Short crop or crew cut
Kept short enough, straight thick hair stays neat and uniform with almost no styling. The catch is that it needs regular cutting, because it starts sticking up as soon as it grows past a certain length.
Longer, layered styles
Possible, but they need careful layering and regular weight removal, otherwise they turn triangular. Expect to spend some time with a hairdryer.
Techniques a good barber will use
| Technique | What it does |
|---|---|
| Point cutting | Scissors cut into the ends at an angle, softening blunt lines |
| Thinning scissors | Remove bulk from within the hair without shortening it |
| Slide cutting | Open scissors slide down the hair to remove weight and add movement |
| Undercutting | Short hair underneath stops the top being pushed out |
| Cutting with the growth direction | Following the natural fall rather than forcing a direction |
Thinning needs judgement. Done well, it makes thick hair lie flatter; overdone, it leaves short broken hairs that stick up even more. Our page on thinning scissors explains when they help and when they should be avoided.
Common problems and their fixes
- Sides that puff out a week after the cut. The hair above the ears needs to be shorter, or the two block section raised slightly.
- Crown that sticks straight up. Leave a little more length so the weight helps it lie down, and blow-dry it flat in the direction of growth. See hair that sticks up for more.
- A fringe that sits like a shelf. Point cut and texture the ends so it breaks up.
- A “mushroom” or helmet shape. Too much bulk left in the top. Ask for weight removed, not length.
- Visible scalp at very short lengths. Dark hair against lighter skin shows a strong contrast. A taper or slightly longer guard softens it.
Styling at home
- Dry it into place. Thick straight hair is set by how it dries. Blow-dry on a medium heat in the direction you want it to sit, pushing it down and forward at the crown and sides.
- Choose matte, flexible products. Clay or paste gives grip and texture without shine. Very heavy waxes can make thick hair look clumpy.
- Use less than you think. Dense hair spreads product a long way. Start with a fingertip amount.
- Work from back to front. Apply to the back and crown first, where the stubborn hair is, then the top and fringe.
- Do not fight it every morning. If you need a lot of product to hold a style down, the cut needs adjusting.
How often to come in
Short sides on dense hair grow out visibly quickly. Most people with this hair type find three to four weeks the sweet spot for a short cut. A two block can stretch to four to five weeks, because the longer top hides the regrowth underneath for a while.
Your first visit
At Highgate Cuts every visit starts with an assessment: the barber looks at your hair, how it grows and how you wear it, and makes recommendations before cutting. Tell them which parts misbehave most (usually the crown and above the ears), how you style it, and what went wrong with previous cuts. Photos of what you liked, and of what you did not, are both useful. Our Highgate barbers are happy to talk through options before committing.
Questions we get asked
Why does my hair stick out at the sides?
Thick, straight hair grows out from the scalp and keeps that angle as it gets longer. Shorter sides or a two block undercut stops it.
Should I get my hair thinned?
Usually yes, to some extent, but carefully. Too much thinning leaves short hairs that stand up.
Is a two block the same as an undercut?
Similar idea, different finish. A two block is typically softer, with the longer top falling naturally over the short section.
Can I get a fade with thick dark hair?
Yes. Low and mid fades work well; just expect the contrast to show regrowth sooner.
Want a cut that removes bulk rather than just length? Read about our barber services or visit The Highgate House. For prices, see the barber menu or email us.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
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The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
