Chapped Lips and Windburn: Cold-Weather Skin Fixes for Men
Chapped lips in men are almost always a water-loss problem: cold air holds little moisture, wind strips what is left, and central heating finishes the job indoors. The fix is boring and reliable. Stop licking your lips, put a plain, fragrance-free balm or a thin layer of petroleum jelly on before you go out and before bed, and choose a lip balm with SPF if you will be outside for long. Windburn on the cheeks works the same way: protect the skin before exposure rather than treating it after. Most cracked lips settle within a week or so of doing this consistently.
Why lips crack first
The skin on your lips is thinner than the skin on your face and has no oil glands of its own. It cannot top itself up the way your forehead can, so it depends entirely on the moisture you give it and the moisture you do not take away. Licking your lips feels like it helps, but saliva evaporates quickly and contains digestive enzymes, so each lick leaves the surface drier than before. That is the loop most men get stuck in by December: lips feel tight, you lick them, they feel tighter.
A beard or moustache does not protect you as much as you might think. Moustache hairs can actually wick moisture away from the top lip, and if you are growing one in, the bristles tend to make you touch and lick the area more often.
What windburn actually is
Windburn is the red, hot, sometimes stinging skin you get after a long walk, run or ride in cold wind. It is irritation from the outer layer of skin being dried and roughed up, and on bright days it often overlaps with sun exposure, which people underestimate in winter. It shows up where the face sticks out: cheekbones, nose, the tops of the ears and, for men who shave, any freshly shaved area. The common North London versions are a Saturday on Hampstead Heath, a run along the Parkland Walk, or a cycle commute down Archway Road into a headwind.
Which lip balm to buy
You do not need anything expensive. You do need to read the label, because some popular balms contain ingredients that give a pleasant tingle and then make sensitive lips worse.
| Look for | Be wary of |
|---|---|
| Petroleum jelly (petrolatum), beeswax, shea butter: they sit on top and slow water loss | Menthol, camphor and peppermint: the cooling feel is irritation |
| Fragrance-free or unflavoured formulas | Strong flavours, which encourage licking |
| SPF 15 or higher for days spent outdoors | Glossy, very thin balms that vanish in ten minutes |
| A stick or small tin you will actually carry | Anything that stings on cracked skin; stop using it |
The cheapest option, a small tub of plain petroleum jelly, is still one of the best overnight treatments. It is not elegant, which is why it works best at bedtime.
A routine that fixes cracked lips in about a week
- Break the licking habit. Keep a balm in your coat pocket and one on the desk. Every time you notice the urge, apply balm instead.
- Apply before you go out, not after. A thin coat ten minutes before you leave the house protects far better than repairing the damage when you get in.
- Use a thicker layer at night. Petroleum jelly or a heavy balm, applied after brushing your teeth. Bedrooms with radiators on are very dry.
- Leave flakes alone. Do not pick or bite peeling skin. If you must, soften it with balm and let it come away on its own over a few days. Lip scrubs on already cracked lips usually set them back.
- Drink normally. Being well hydrated helps, but water alone will not fix lips exposed to wind all day. The barrier on the outside matters more.
Protecting your face from wind
The same principle applies to the cheeks and nose. A richer moisturiser in the morning, applied a few minutes before you go out, gives the skin a layer to lose before it starts losing its own. Men with oily skin can often get away with a light lotion in summer and still need something heavier in January. If you are not sure what that should be, our guide to choosing a moisturiser that suits your skin goes through textures and ingredients.
A few practical habits make more difference than any product:
- Cover up on long exposures. A scarf, snood or buff over the lower face on a cold run or ride takes most of the wind off the lips and chin.
- Do not forget SPF on bright days. Winter sun is low but real, and it reflects strongly off snow. If you are heading to the mountains, wear sunscreen on the face and an SPF lip balm, and reapply. The NHS guidance on sunscreen and sun safety covers what to look for.
- Wash with lukewarm water. Hot water on wind-chapped skin feels good for a minute and leaves it tighter for hours. Use a gentle cleanser rather than bar soap.
- Turn the heating down a notch at night. Very warm, dry bedrooms do as much damage as the wind outside.
Shaving in cold, windy weather
Fresh shaving removes some of the outer layer of skin along with the hair, which is why a just-shaved face stings more in the wind. If you can, shave in the evening rather than right before a cold commute, so the skin has a night to settle. Shave after a warm shower, use a proper cream or gel rather than foam from a can, shave with the grain, and follow with an alcohol-free balm. Our guide on dry skin in winter covers the wider routine for the rest of the face.
A hot towel shave at the barber is gentler on the skin than most people expect, because the towels and pre-shave preparation soften the hair before the blade touches it. It takes 20 to 30 minutes. If your skin is badly chapped, mention it when you sit down: every visit at Highgate Cuts starts with an assessment, and the barber may suggest leaving the shave a few days or adjusting the routine so the skin is not taken back to raw.
Beards and the skin underneath
A beard keeps wind off the jaw, but the skin underneath still dries out, and dry skin under a beard shows up as flakes and itch. Wash the beard with a gentle cleanser rather than shampoo meant for the scalp, and use a beard oil or balm worked right down to the skin. Keep the moustache trimmed so it sits above the lip line; long moustache hairs dragging across the lip keep it irritated. The Highgate Cuts team can tidy the line and talk you through upkeep as part of beard work at the shop.
When it is not just the weather
Most chapped lips are just chapped lips. A few things are worth getting checked:
- Cracks at the corners of the mouth that do not heal after a couple of weeks of balm.
- Tingling, burning or small blisters on the lip: that is more likely a cold sore. The NHS page on cold sores explains what to do, and do not share lip balm while you have one.
- Lips that get worse after starting a new balm, toothpaste or medication, which can point to irritation or a reaction.
- A sore or patch on the lip that does not heal within a few weeks.
A pharmacist is a good first stop for most of these, and they can tell you whether you need to see your GP.
Questions we get asked
Is Vaseline good for chapped lips?
Yes. Plain petroleum jelly is an effective barrier that slows moisture loss, and it is particularly useful overnight. It does not add moisture itself, so apply it to lips that are not completely parched, ideally after a drink of water or a shower.
How often should I put lip balm on?
Before going outside, after eating or drinking, and before bed is enough for most people. If you find yourself reaching for it every twenty minutes, the balm may contain an irritant or be too thin to last.
Can I still get a shave if my face is windburnt?
Usually better to wait a day or two until the redness and stinging settle. If you are booked in, mention it at the start and the barber will adjust or reschedule the shave.
Does a beard stop chapped lips?
Not really. It shelters the chin and jaw, but the lips are still exposed, and a long moustache can make the top lip drier.
Book with The Highgate House
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The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
