Do Men Need Conditioner? What It Does and Who Should Use It
Most men benefit from conditioner, but not all of them need it every time they wash. If your hair is longer than a few centimetres, curly, coarse, grey, or washed most days, conditioner makes it softer, less frizzy and easier to style, and it reduces the small amount of damage that comes from washing, towelling and brushing. If you have a short crop or a skin fade and naturally oily hair, you can use it occasionally or skip it with little consequence. The rule of thumb: the longer, curlier or drier the hair, the more conditioner earns its place.
What conditioner actually does
Each hair is covered in a layer of overlapping cells called the cuticle, a bit like roof tiles. When the cuticle lies flat, hair feels smooth and reflects light. Shampoo, hot water, towelling and brushing all roughen it a little and strip some of the natural oil (sebum) your scalp produces.
Conditioners contain ingredients that cling to the hair surface: conditioning agents that carry a slight positive charge and bind to the slightly negatively charged, damaged areas of the hair, plus oils and silicones that coat the strand. The effect is to:
- reduce friction between strands, so hair tangles less and combs through easily;
- reduce static, which is why hair behaves better in winter with it;
- make the surface smoother, so hair looks less dull;
- soften coarse or wiry hairs so they lie flatter.
What conditioner does not do is repair split ends permanently, make hair grow faster, or treat a scalp problem. Once a hair has split, the only fix is to cut it.
Why men are told they can skip it
The argument has some truth. Men’s hair is often short, and short hair is younger hair: the length nearest the scalp has had little time to be worn down. On a 2cm crop, the oldest hair might be a couple of months old. On shoulder-length hair it may be several years old and has been washed hundreds of times. That is why conditioner matters so much more as hair gets longer.
Men also tend to have oilier scalps, and a heavy conditioner on an oily scalp can leave hair limp by the afternoon.
Who needs it, who can skip it
| Your hair | Conditioner? |
|---|---|
| Skin fade or buzz, oily scalp | Optional. Use on the top occasionally if it feels rough. |
| Short crop, normal hair | A light conditioner two or three times a week. |
| Medium length (5cm upwards) | Every time you shampoo. |
| Wavy or curly | Every wash, and possibly on non-shampoo days too. |
| Afro or tightly coiled | Yes, and usually a leave-in as well. |
| Grey or wiry | Yes; it softens texture noticeably. |
| Fine or thinning | A lightweight one, on the lengths only. |
If you have curly or coiled hair, our guides to washing curly hair without frizz and moisturising afro hair go further than this general picture.
How to use conditioner properly
- Shampoo first and rinse well. Conditioner goes on clean hair.
- Squeeze out excess water. Dripping hair dilutes the conditioner and it rinses away before it does anything.
- Apply to the lengths, not the scalp. Start a couple of centimetres away from the roots and work towards the ends, where the hair is oldest. Your scalp makes its own oil.
- Use the right amount. A five-pence-sized blob for short hair, more for longer hair. If your hair feels slippery all over, that is enough.
- Leave it for a minute or two. Use the time to wash your face or body.
- Rinse thoroughly with cooler water. Leftover conditioner is the main reason hair looks flat afterwards.
Rinse-out, leave-in or mask?
- Rinse-out: the standard type, for everyday use.
- Leave-in: lighter, applied to towel-dried hair and not rinsed. Useful for curly, afro and very dry hair, and as a light base before styling.
- Mask or deep conditioner: heavier, left on for several minutes, once a week or less. Mainly for long, curly or chemically treated hair.
- 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner: convenient, and fine for short hair. On longer or curly hair a separate conditioner usually does a better job.
Mistakes that give conditioner a bad name
Putting it on the roots
This weighs fine hair down and can make an oily scalp look greasier sooner. Lengths and ends only.
Using a heavy formula on fine hair
Rich conditioners designed for thick, dry or curly hair will flatten fine hair. Look for words like “lightweight” or “volumising”.
Not rinsing enough
A residue film makes hair limp and can stop styling products gripping. If your clay or paste is not holding, this is one possible culprit. Our guide to using hair clay covers the styling side.
Expecting it to fix the scalp
Flaking, itching or redness are scalp issues, and conditioner on the scalp can make some of them worse. The NHS guide to dandruff covers the usual treatments, and a pharmacist is a sensible first stop if it persists.
Conditioner and your haircut
The way hair is cut affects how much conditioning it needs. Heavily texturised or thinned hair has more cut ends exposed, and longer layers carry older hair. Regular trims remove the most worn ends, which conditioner can only disguise. If your hair feels rough or dull, it is worth mentioning at the start of your visit to Highgate Cuts; the barber looks at your hair and what you need before cutting, and can suggest whether the issue is length, technique or simply product.
A practical sign you need conditioner: run your fingers through towel-dried hair. If they snag, or the hair feels rough or straw-like towards the ends, start using it. If your hair already slides through and you have a short cut, you can probably do without.
Questions we get asked
Can I use my partner’s conditioner?
Yes. There is no meaningful difference between men’s and women’s conditioners beyond fragrance and packaging. What matters is whether the formula suits your hair type.
Can I use conditioner without shampoo?
Some men with curly or very dry hair rinse with conditioner only between shampoo days (“co-washing”). On straight or oily hair it tends to build up.
Does conditioner cause hair loss?
No. Hair you see in the shower after conditioning is mostly hair that had already shed naturally and was released as you detangled. If you notice sudden or patchy loss, speak to your GP.
Is conditioner worth it with a fade?
For the faded sides, no. For the hair on top, if it is longer than a few centimetres, a light one helps. Book your next cut through our barber page or read more about The Highgate House.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
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The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
