How to Grow Out a Fade Without the Awkward Months
To grow out a fade cleanly, stop taking the sides down but keep seeing a barber. Every four to six weeks, have the top and back tidied and the neckline and ears cleaned up, while the sides are left alone to catch up. The awkward stage comes from the sides growing out unevenly and the back getting heavy, not from the length itself, and both are fixed with small trims rather than skipping the barber altogether. Going from a skin fade to a short scissor cut usually takes two to three months; to hair you can push behind your ears, closer to six to nine.
Why a fade grows out awkwardly
A fade is built on contrast: skin or very short hair at the bottom, length on top, and a carefully blended gradient in between. Hair grows at roughly the same rate everywhere, so after a few weeks the gradient flattens. The shortest band is no longer short, the blend loses its shape, and what you have is a haircut with puffy sides, a top that has not moved much in relative terms, and hair spreading over the ears and down the neck.
Two other things make it worse. Hair on the sides and back tends to stick out rather than lie flat at around one to three centimetres, particularly above the ears. And the top, which was cut to sit over short sides, now sits on top of a bulky shape it was never designed for. If you have a fade with a strong disconnect, the step between top and sides can become a shelf.
First decide what you are growing into
“Growing it out” covers very different end points, and each needs a different plan. Be clear with your barber which one you mean.
| Target | Typical time from a skin or mid fade | What the barber keeps doing |
|---|---|---|
| A taper (short, but no skin) | Two to four weeks | Taper the neckline and around the ears only; leave the rest of the sides |
| Short back and sides with scissors | Six to ten weeks | Shape the sides with scissor over comb once there is enough length to hold |
| Medium length, covering the ears partly | Four to six months | Trim the back to stop it overtaking the sides; keep weight off the ears |
| Long enough to tuck behind ears | Six to nine months or more | Regular shape-ups, removing bulk and split ends; letting the top and sides converge |
The timings are approximate and depend on how high the fade was, how fast your hair grows and how short you started. A high skin fade needs longer than a low one, because there is more short hair to grow.
A month-by-month plan
Weeks one to four: let the sides go
Tell your barber at your next visit that you are growing out and the sides should not be taken down. What they can still do is clean the neckline, tidy around the ears and take a little off the top if you want the overall shape to stay balanced. Most people keep the top roughly as is during this stage, because cutting it shorter only to wait for the sides is a waste of growth. If you want it, a taper at the nape and sideburns keeps things looking deliberate.
Weeks five to ten: the in-between stage
This is the hardest stretch. The sides are now long enough to puff out but too short for scissors to shape well. A good barber can take the bulk out with thinning or point cutting and shape the outline with scissor over comb, so the head looks rounded rather than square. This is the visit most people skip, and the one that matters most. You can read more about the technique in our guide to scissor over comb.
Months three to six: managing the back
Hair at the back often seems to grow faster, and a growing-out cut that leaves the back alone ends in a mullet you did not ask for. From around month three, ask for the back to be kept a touch shorter than the sides and checked against them each visit. If you are heading for real length, our broader piece on growing your hair out covers the later stages.
What to ask for at each visit
A short brief helps the barber, particularly if you see someone new. Every visit to Highgate Cuts starts with an assessment, where the barber looks at your hair and what you are aiming for and makes recommendations, so bring answers to these:
- “I’m growing out a fade towards [target]. Please don’t use clippers on the sides.”
- “Can you take the bulk out above the ears so it doesn’t stick out?”
- “Keep the back level with, or slightly shorter than, the sides.”
- “Clean up the neckline and around the ears, but no hard line.”
- “Leave the top unless it is out of proportion.”
The phrase “just a tidy” is often how men accidentally lose six weeks of growth. Be explicit about what is not to be cut.
Hiding the in-between stage
- Use product on the sides, not just the top. A small amount of matte paste or cream pressed onto the sides stops them flaring.
- Dry the sides down. A hairdryer pointed downwards with your fingers pressing the hair flat for half a minute changes how it sits all day.
- Move the parting. A side parting distributes the top over the grown-out side and hides the old fade line.
- Add texture to the top. A messy, textured top makes untidy sides look intentional rather than overdue.
- Keep the neckline clean. Nothing signals “neglected” faster than a fuzzy nape. A five-minute neck tidy at the barber does more than any product.
Common mistakes
- Not going to the barber at all. The shape collapses, and you end up having more cut off at month three than you would have with small trims along the way.
- Letting the top keep growing past where it balances. If the top gets much longer while the sides are still short, the in-between stage drags on. Keep the proportions sensible.
- Trimming the neckline at home. A home neckline usually sits too high and has to be taken back even further. See our method for tidying your neckline between cuts if you must.
- Giving up in week seven. This is when most people go back to clippers, usually just before it starts to look good.
Questions we get asked
How long does it take to grow out a skin fade?
To a short scissor cut, usually two to three months. To medium length, four to six months. A low fade grows out faster than a high one.
Should I cut the top while growing out the sides?
Only to keep the shape balanced. A light trim to remove weight is fine; taking it noticeably shorter usually means you are starting again.
Will my hair grow back thicker if I keep cutting it?
No. Cutting does not change how thick hair grows from the follicle. Regular trims simply keep the shape tidy. The NHS hair loss page is worth reading if you notice thinning as it grows.
Can you grow out a fade with curly or afro hair?
Yes, and curls often hide the in-between stage better. The barber will shape the outline rather than thin it, and the timeline depends on curl pattern and shrinkage.
If you are starting the process, book with our barbers on Archway Road and say in your email that you are growing out a fade. You can also browse the building and services at The Highgate House, or go straight to the Highgate Cuts barber menu.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
Visit The Highgate House · The barbers
The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
