How to Grow and Train a Handlebar Moustache, Week by Week

To grow a handlebar moustache, stop trimming the moustache entirely except along the lip line, let the ends grow past the corners of your mouth, and start training them sideways with a firm wax from around week four. Most men need around three to four months for a small handlebar with ends that curl, and six months or more for a full one, depending on how fast and thick their hair grows. The two decisions that make or break it are what you trim, which should be almost nothing, and how consistently you wax, which should be daily. Patience matters more than product.

Facial hair grows at roughly a centimetre a month for most men, sometimes a bit more or less. The ends of a handlebar need to reach well past the corners of your mouth before they can curl, which is why this is a project, not a weekend look.

Before you start

• Decide on the beard. A handlebar can sit alone on a clean-shaven face, or with stubble or a short beard. Shaving the rest of the face makes the shape more obvious; a beard can help hide the awkward middle weeks.
• Look at your growth. Patchy corners or a gap in the middle will slow things down. They do not make it impossible.
• Buy wax early. A firm or strong-hold moustache wax, a fine-toothed comb and small scissors.
• Accept the itch. Weeks two to four are uncomfortable for most men. It passes.

The timeline

Stage	What it looks like	What to do
Weeks 1 to 2	Stubble; itchy; looks accidental	Do not trim the moustache at all. Keep the rest of the face tidy if shaving.
Weeks 3 to 4	Hair reaches the lip; starts getting in food	Comb sideways from the centre. Trim only hairs that go into the mouth.
Weeks 5 to 8	Moustache covers the top lip; ends reach the corners	Start daily wax. Train hairs outward, not down.
Weeks 9 to 12	Ends pass the corners of the mouth	Begin a gentle upward twist at the ends. Leave the “wings” alone.
Months 4 to 6	Ends long enough to curl	Shape the curl; consider a stronger wax.
Month 6 and beyond	Full handlebar	Maintain the lip line; trim only stray hairs.

These timings are a guide. Hair that grows quickly and densely will be ahead; finer or patchier growth will take longer.

What to trim, and what never to trim

This is where most attempts fail. The instinct is to tidy up as it grows, and every tidy-up costs you weeks.

• Trim: only the hairs that hang over the lip line into your mouth, and the occasional stray going in the wrong direction.
• Never trim: the ends, or the hair at the corners of the mouth. These become the handlebar.
• Be careful with: the area where the moustache meets the cheeks if you shave. Leave a generous margin; you can always take it away later.

Our guide on how to trim a moustache covers the lip line technique in more detail.

Waxing and training, step by step

1. Start with dry, clean hair. Wax holds poorly on damp or oily hair.
2. Warm the wax. Scrape a small amount with a fingernail and rub it between finger and thumb until soft. A hairdryer on low, held briefly over the tin, also works.
3. Apply from the centre outward. Work the wax into the hair, not just over the surface.
4. Comb sideways. Part at the centre under the nose and comb each side outward towards the cheeks.
5. Twist the ends. Once they are long enough, twist each end between finger and thumb, then curl it upwards or around.
6. Repeat daily. The hair learns direction over weeks. Skipping days lets it fall back down.

Our article on choosing and using moustache wax covers hold strengths and removing it at night.

Common problems and fixes

• The ends droop by lunchtime. Use a firmer wax, apply more at the ends, and warm it more thoroughly so it penetrates.
• It looks lopsided. One side often grows faster. Shape both to match the shorter side for a while, but do not cut the longer one.
• The centre gets in your mouth. Comb it sideways and wax it. A small trim of the lip line is fine.
• Itchy skin underneath. Wash the moustache gently each evening to remove wax, and use a little beard oil on the skin.
• Food. Waxed ends attract it. A napkin and a pocket comb are part of the kit.

Where a barber helps

You can grow a handlebar without a barber. But at a couple of points a professional eye saves a lot of frustration: around week six, to set the lip line and decide how the rest of the face should look, and once the ends are long enough, to shape the curl evenly. Every visit with us starts with an assessment of your hair and what you want, and the barber makes recommendations before starting. Beard work and hot towel shaves for the rest of the face are part of what we do on Archway Road.

If you are only just starting out, our post on getting through the awkward first weeks of a moustache is the place to begin.

Questions we get asked

How long does a handlebar moustache take?

Typically three to four months for a small curl and six months or more for a full handlebar. It depends on your growth rate and thickness.

Can I keep a beard with a handlebar?

Yes. Keep the beard short enough that the moustache ends stand out from it, and ask your barber to define where one stops and the other starts.

Does wax damage the hair?

Not if you remove it gently each night with warm water and a mild wash. Pulling or picking off hardened wax causes breakage.

Can you shape mine for me?

Yes, once it has some length. Barber prices are not published yet: email us or ask for the barber menu. You can read more about our barber services in Highgate first.

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