How to Wash Your Hair Properly: A Better Shampoo Technique
To wash your hair properly, wet it thoroughly with lukewarm water for half a minute, lather a small amount of shampoo in your hands first, then massage it into the scalp with your fingertips (not your nails) for about a minute. Let the lather run through the lengths as you rinse rather than scrubbing the ends. Rinse for longer than feels necessary, then condition the mid-lengths and ends if your hair needs it. Most men use too much shampoo, scrub the wrong part of the head and rinse too quickly. Fixing those three habits makes more difference than changing product.
Here is the technique step by step, with the reasons behind each one.
Shampoo is for the scalp, not the hair
This is the single idea that changes how most men wash. The oil, sweat, dead skin and product build-up that make hair look greasy collect on the scalp and the first few centimetres of hair. The lengths and ends are older, drier and do not produce oil of their own. Scrubbing them with shampoo strips what little protection they have and roughs up the surface, which is why long or curly hair often feels like straw after a wash.
On a short crop or fade, nearly all the hair is near the scalp, so the distinction matters less. On anything longer than a few inches, it matters a lot.
The method, step by step
- Brush or finger-comb first (longer hair only). Detangling before the water goes on means less pulling once the hair is wet and more fragile.
- Soak the hair properly. Give it a full 30 seconds under the water, working your fingers through so water reaches the scalp. Hair that is only damp on the surface will not lather well, and you will reach for more shampoo.
- Get the temperature right. Warm, not hot. Very hot water can leave the scalp dry and itchy and the hair frizzier. You want the temperature you would choose for washing your face.
- Use less shampoo than you think. See the amounts below. Rub it between your palms first so it spreads evenly, rather than dropping a blob on the crown.
- Massage the scalp with the pads of your fingers. Work in small circles from the hairline back to the crown, then behind the ears and down to the nape, which are the areas most people miss. About 60 seconds is enough. Nails scratch the scalp and can leave it sore.
- Let the lather clean the lengths as you rinse. As the suds run down through the hair, they clean the lengths gently. You do not need to scrub them separately.
- Rinse for at least as long as you lathered. Tilt your head back, lift the hair at the nape and behind the ears, and keep going until the hair feels slightly squeaky at the roots and there is no slipperiness left. Leftover shampoo is a common cause of flat, dull hair and an itchy scalp.
- Condition the ends if needed. Apply to the mid-lengths and ends only, leave it for a minute or two, and rinse. Our guide on how long to leave conditioner in covers timing in more detail.
How much shampoo to use
| Hair length | Rough amount |
|---|---|
| Buzz cut or skin fade with short top | A pea-sized drop |
| Short crop or classic short back and sides | About a five-pence coin |
| Medium length, a few inches on top | About a ten-pence coin |
| Long or very thick hair | About a fifty-pence coin, possibly in two rounds |
If it does not lather, the answer is usually more water, not more shampoo. If you used styling product, see the next section.
When to shampoo twice
A double shampoo makes sense if you wear heavy product (pomade, wax, clay), if your scalp is very oily, or if you have not washed for several days. The first round breaks down oil and product and barely lathers. The second round lathers properly and does the actual cleaning. Use a small amount each time. If you only use a light cream or nothing at all, one round is enough.
Oil-based pomade is the hardest product to shift. We have a separate guide on washing out pomade without stripping your hair.
Common mistakes
- Piling hair on top of the head and scrubbing. It creates tangles and roughs up the lengths.
- Using nails. Satisfying, but it irritates the scalp and can make flaking worse.
- Shampooing only the crown. The nape, temples and the area behind the ears get just as oily.
- Rinsing for ten seconds. Shampoo residue is a common reason hair looks lank by midday.
- Conditioner on the scalp. Unless your hair is very dry and coily, keep it on the lengths, or your roots will flatten.
- Rough towel-drying. Rubbing wet hair hard causes frizz and breakage. Press and squeeze with the towel instead, then let it air-dry for a few minutes before using a dryer.
Adjusting for your hair type
Fine or thinning hair: wash more often if it looks flat; light shampoo, light or no conditioner on the roots, and a thorough rinse.
Curly and wavy hair: wash less often, use a gentler shampoo, and always condition. Detangle in the conditioner, not on dry hair.
Afro and coily hair: many men wash once a week or less, often section by section, and follow with a leave-in. Some use conditioner-only washes in between.
Dandruff or itchy scalp: leave a medicated shampoo on the scalp for the time stated on the bottle before rinsing. If flaking persists or the scalp is red and sore, the NHS guidance on dandruff explains when to speak to a pharmacist or GP.
What your barber can tell you
A barber sees your hair and scalp up close, which makes it a good time to ask why your hair looks flat by lunchtime or frizzes after washing. Every appointment with the Highgate Cuts team starts with an assessment of your hair and what you need, so a question about washing fits naturally into that conversation.
Questions we get asked
Should I wash my hair every day?
It depends on your scalp, hair type and how much you sweat. Many men with short hair and active lives do wash daily with a mild shampoo; curly and afro hair usually needs far less. Our guide to how often men should wash their hair goes through it.
Hot or cold water for the final rinse?
Lukewarm for washing. A cooler final rinse is down to personal preference; it will not damage anything.
Does the brand of shampoo matter?
Less than technique. Match the type (gentle, clarifying, anti-dandruff, for curls) to your hair and scalp, and use it well.
Should I wash my hair before a haircut?
Clean hair with no heavy product is ideal. For your next appointment, see the barber page or email us, and you will find the rest of the venue at The Highgate House.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
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The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
