Long on Top, Short on the Sides: How to Ask for the Right Version

“Long on top, short on the sides” is the most common request in any barbers in London, and it describes at least a dozen different haircuts. To get the one you are picturing, you need to settle four things: how short the sides go, how the sides join the top, how long the top stays, and which way the top is worn. Give the barber those four answers, ideally with a photo, and the cut almost always comes out as intended. Leave them vague and you are relying on the barber’s guess, which may be a good one, but it is still a guess.

Why the phrase is not enough on its own

To one man, “short” means a number 3 that still covers the scalp. To another it means skin. “Long on top” can mean an inch and a half of textured crop or five inches slicked back. Both versions satisfy the phrase. A good barber will ask follow-up questions, and every visit at our Archway Road barbers starts with an assessment of your hair before anything is cut, but you will get a better result if you arrive with answers already in mind.

Decision 1: how short are the sides?

Clipper guards are graded in eighths of an inch. A number 1 is roughly 3mm, a number 2 about 6mm, a number 3 about 10mm, and a number 4 about 13mm. Below a 1, barbers use a half grade or take the hair to skin with the guard off or with foil shavers. Rough guide to how they look:

Sides	How it reads	Grows out
Skin to 0.5	Sharp, high contrast, scalp visible	Fastest; noticeable within 2 weeks
1 to 2	Clean and short, scalp faintly visible	Looks tidy for about 3 weeks
3 to 4	Conservative, no scalp showing	Forgiving; 4 to 5 weeks
Scissors	Soft, traditional, sits close but natural	Grows out most gracefully

The full breakdown is in our clipper guard numbers guide. One practical point: pale scalp and dark hair make the same grade look shorter, and fair hair looks shorter than dark at the same length.

Decision 2: how do the sides meet the top?

This is the question most men forget, and it is the one that changes the haircut most.

• Blended. The length steps up gradually from the sides into the top, so there is no line. This is a taper or a fade with the top left longer. It suits most heads and grows out evenly.
• Disconnected. The sides are clipped short and the top is left long with a visible step between them, often hidden when the top is pushed back. This is the classic undercut. It looks sharp and deliberate, but grows out awkwardly and needs regular attention.
• Squared off. The sides are short but the corners at the temples and crown are kept, giving a more angular, square-headed shape. Works well on a narrow or long face.

If you are not sure which you are looking at in a photo, the guide on fade versus undercut walks through how to tell.

And how high?

With a fade or taper, the height of the shortest part also matters. A low fade stays near the ears and neckline and is the most office-friendly. A mid fade goes to about the temple. A high fade runs close to where the head starts to curve, which makes the top look longer and more dramatic. If you are unsure, start lower: you can always go higher next time.

Decision 3: how long is the top?

Inches are clearer than adjectives. Think of it in three bands:

• Short top, about 1 to 2 inches. Textured crops, short quiffs, a brushed-forward look. Little styling needed.
• Medium top, about 2 to 4 inches. Enough to push back, part or style upwards. This is where most “long on top” requests land.
• Long top, 4 inches and more. Slick-backs, pompadours, hair that falls when not styled. Needs product and daily effort.

If you are growing the top, say so. A barber will tidy the shape and take off split ends without losing length, rather than “squaring it up” and setting you back a month.

Decision 4: which way is it worn?

The barber cuts the top differently depending on where it will sit. Hair that is pushed back needs length graduated from front to crown. Hair worn forward needs weight at the fringe. A side parting needs the parting found and respected. A quiff needs the front left longest. Tell the barber how you wear it on an ordinary Tuesday, not how it looked once after a professional blow-dry. If you do want a specific style, our posts on the quiff and side parting describe how each one is built.

What to say in the chair: a checklist

1. Sides: “A number 2 on the sides” or “skin at the bottom”.
2. Join: “Blended into the top” or “disconnected, I want the line”.
3. Height: “Keep the fade low” or “take it up to the temples”.
4. Top: “Leave about three inches, just take the weight out”.
5. Direction: “I push it back with a bit of clay”.
6. Neckline: “Tapered” or “squared” at the back.
7. Effort: “I give it two minutes in the morning”.

Then show the photo, and listen to what the barber says about it. A reference photo is useful; one that matches your hair type is far more useful. Reference photos at the barber covers what makes a good one.

What suits whom

• Thinning or receding at the front: keep the contrast moderate. Very short sides next to a long, sparse top make thinning more obvious. A shorter, textured top usually looks fuller.
• Round face: shorter sides and some height on top lengthen the shape.
• Long face: avoid too much height; a fuller side and a top worn forward or to the side balances it.
• Prominent ears: very short sides expose them. A scissor cut or a number 3 or 4 is kinder.
• Curly hair: curls shrink; the top needs to be cut longer than you think, and dry so the barber sees the real length.

Upkeep

Short sides are the first part to grow out. With a skin fade, three weeks is a typical interval before it looks soft; with a number 3 or scissored sides, four to six weeks. Some men book a quicker side tidy between full cuts. If you want help working out the right rhythm, the team at Highgate Cuts will suggest one based on how your hair grows.

Questions we get asked

What is the difference between this and a short back and sides?

A short back and sides traditionally leaves the top short-to-medium and blends everything with scissors. “Long on top” implies more length and more contrast.

Should the top be cut with clippers or scissors?

Usually scissors, especially above two inches, so the weight can be controlled and the hair moves naturally.

How long does it take to grow a top long enough?

Hair grows roughly half an inch a month, so going from a short crop to a slick-back takes several months. Keep the sides tidy while you wait.

Can I ask for a change halfway through?

Yes, and you should, before the clippers go higher. It is easy to go shorter and impossible to go back.

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