Man Bun and Top Knot: Keeping the Sides Neat While It Grows
A good man bun haircut is two decisions: what happens to the sides and back, and how long the top needs to be before it ties. The fastest route is an undercut or a low fade on the sides with only the top grown out, because the top needs roughly 15 to 20 cm to reach a small knot at the crown, and that takes most men well over a year from short. If you want a fuller bun at the back of the head, everything has to grow, which takes longer but gives a softer look. Either way, regular visits to the barber during the grow-out are what keep it looking intentional.
Bun or top knot: which are you actually after?
The words get used interchangeably, but they are different shapes with different growing requirements.
| Top knot | Full man bun | |
|---|---|---|
| Where it sits | Crown or just in front of it | Back of the head, roughly level with the ears or a little higher |
| Sides | Short: undercut, fade or taper | Long, gathered in with the rest |
| Length needed | Top only, enough to reach the crown and wrap | All over, enough for the shortest hair at the nape and temples to reach the tie |
| Look loose | Long on top, short on the sides | Shoulder-length hair |
| Barber visits | Every three to five weeks for the sides | Every eight to twelve weeks to tidy ends and shape |
The top knot is the practical choice for most men who work in offices or train regularly, because the short sides look neat whether the hair is up or down. The full bun suits men who also like wearing their hair loose.
How long it takes to grow
Hair grows at around a centimetre a month on average, though it varies from person to person (we cover the detail in how fast hair really grows). That gives you a rough timetable from a standard short cut:
- Months 0 to 4. The top passes the length of a textured crop. Keep the sides short and this just looks like a longer-on-top cut.
- Months 4 to 9. The awkward stretch. The fringe reaches the eyes and the top starts to flop. Slicking it back with a light cream or using a headband at the gym helps.
- Months 9 to 14. Most straight hair will reach a small, stubby knot. Curly or wavy hair often gets there sooner in practice, because curls hold together in a tie with less length.
- Months 14 onward. Enough length for a proper knot with a loop or a twist. A full bun with the sides grown in usually needs another six months beyond that.
Undercut, fade or taper underneath
With a top knot, the sides are the part people see most. Three options, each with a different maintenance load.
Disconnected undercut
The sides and back are taken short at one length, typically a grade 1 to 3, with a clean line where the long hair starts. With the hair up, the contrast is sharp and the knot sits on a neat shelf. With it down, the long hair covers the line. This is the classic look and the easiest to describe to any barber.
Skin or low fade
A fade blends from skin at the bottom upward, then stops at the line where the long hair begins. It looks crisper but needs touching up more often, usually every two to three weeks if you want the fade to stay sharp. Our guide to fades versus undercuts sets out the trade-off in detail.
Taper only
If you are growing towards a full bun but want to look tidy on the way, keep the sides at a scissor length and taper only the nape and around the ears. As the rest grows, the barber gradually leaves more length until the taper disappears.
Where to draw the line
The most common mistake is putting the undercut line too high or too low. Too high, and the long section is a narrow strip that does not gather into a decent knot. Too low, and the long hair sits on top of the ears when it is down. As a starting point, the parting line usually runs from just above the temple round to the occipital bone at the back (the bump you can feel at the back of the skull), but your head shape and where the crown swirl falls move it. This is exactly what the assessment at the start of a visit to Highgate Cuts is for: the barber looks at your hair, your crown and how you want to wear it, and recommends where to set the line before cutting.
What to ask for at each visit during the grow-out
- Sides and back: the same grade as last time, or a clear change if you want one.
- Top: “Dust the ends only.” A barber can take off split ends with only a few millimetres of length lost. Say clearly that you are growing it.
- Weight: thick hair can be thinned through the middle so the knot sits smaller and the long section lies flatter when down.
- Neckline: a tapered neckline grows out more gracefully than a squared one between visits.
- Beard: if you have one, ask for the sideburns to be blended into it so the short sides connect to the face.
Tying it without damaging your hair
Constant tension in the same spot can cause breakage and, over years, a type of hair loss called traction alopecia (the NHS hair loss page lists tight hairstyles as a cause), where repeated pulling on the follicles thins the hair. It is well documented and largely avoidable.
- Use soft fabric or coil-style ties, not thin elastic bands with metal joins.
- Do not tie it tight enough to feel pulling at the hairline.
- Vary the position slightly: a little higher one day, a little lower the next.
- Take it down when you are at home and when you sleep.
- Do not tie it up soaking wet. Wet hair stretches and breaks more easily; let it dry most of the way first.
If you notice thinning at the temples or along the hairline, ease off and mention it to your GP or a dermatologist. Our piece on early signs of hair loss is a sensible place to start.
Hair types and how they behave up
Straight, fine hair slides out of a knot. A little texture spray or dry shampoo before tying gives it grip. Thick hair makes a big, heavy bun that can pull; thinning the interior helps. Curly and coily hair gathers well and holds without product, though it needs moisture, and the knot should be loose to protect the curl pattern. Afro hair can be worn up in a puff or with twists gathered at the crown; the same advice about tension applies.
Is it right for the office?
A tidy top knot over short, clean sides is now ordinary in most London workplaces. What makes it read as scruffy is not the knot but the edges: overgrown sides, a fuzzy neckline and flyaways. If your sides are neat, the knot looks deliberate, which is why a short, regular visit to a barber in Highgate does more for the look than any product.
Questions we get asked
How long does hair need to be for a man bun?
For a small top knot, roughly 15 to 20 cm on top, depending on where the knot sits and your hair type. For a full bun including the sides and back, the shortest hair at the nape needs to reach the tie, which usually means shoulder length.
Do I need to stop going to the barber while I grow it?
No. Keep going, but ask for the top to be dusted only. Regular visits keep the sides tidy and remove split ends, which is what makes long hair look healthy.
Can I have a fade with a man bun?
Yes. A low or mid fade under a top knot is a common combination. It needs touching up more often than an undercut at a single grade.
Will a man bun make me go bald?
Wearing your hair up does not cause genetic hair loss. Repeatedly tying it very tightly can cause traction hair loss, so keep it loose and vary the position.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
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The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
