The Men's Perm: How Modern Perms Add Curl and Texture

A men’s perm is a chemical treatment that reshapes the hair so it holds a curl or wave on its own. Hair is wound around rods, a solution loosens the internal bonds that give hair its shape, and a neutraliser sets them again around the rod. Modern men’s perms tend to use larger rods and looser patterns than the tight 1980s version, so the result reads as natural texture rather than a statement. The curl stays in the treated hair until it is cut off, and most men need around two inches of length on top for a worthwhile result. Below: how it works, who it suits, and what to ask first.

A note before we go further: perms are a specialist chemical service and are not something we offer at The Highgate House. This is a general guide. The cut that sits around a perm is a different matter, and we come back to that at the end.

How a perm actually changes the hair

Each hair gets much of its strength and shape from disulphide bonds, chemical links within the keratin. Water and heat only affect weaker bonds, which is why a blow-dry falls out when it rains. A perm works on the disulphide bonds themselves.

1. Cut and prepare. The hair is usually cut into shape first, because the curl will make it look shorter and change how it sits.
2. Wind. Sections are wound around rods. Rod size decides curl size: small rods for tight curls, large rods for loose waves and body.
3. Process. A perm lotion, typically based on a thioglycolate, is applied. It breaks some of the disulphide bonds so the hair takes the shape of the rod.
4. Rinse and neutralise. After timed processing, the lotion is rinsed out and a neutraliser, commonly hydrogen peroxide based, re-forms the bonds in their new position.
5. Unwind and finish. The rods come out and the hair is rinsed, conditioned and dried, ideally without heavy tension.

The whole appointment usually takes a couple of hours, sometimes longer for longer hair or a careful strand test.

The styles men usually ask for

• Texture perm. Big rods, minimal curl. The aim is volume and movement in hair that otherwise lies flat. This is the most common request for men.
• Wave perm. A loose S-pattern, often worn with longer hair on top and shorter sides.
• Curly top. Defined curls on top with tight sides, in the style of the broccoli haircut. Smaller rods, more commitment.
• Root or volume perm. Only the first part of the hair is treated to lift it off the scalp, for fine hair that collapses.

Who suits a perm, and who should think twice

A perm works best on hair that is in good condition, reasonably healthy at the ends, and long enough to wrap around a rod at least once or twice. Straight or slightly wavy hair that will not hold any shape is the classic candidate.

Think carefully if any of these apply:

• Bleached or heavily coloured hair. Bleach also breaks down the hair’s structure. Perming on top of it can leave hair brittle or prone to snapping. Many stylists will refuse, and they are right to.
• Very fine or thinning hair. A perm can add apparent volume, but it can also make thin areas more obvious once the curl separates strands. A well-judged cut with some texture on top can sometimes achieve the same goal without chemicals.
• A sensitive scalp or skin condition. Perm solutions can irritate skin. If you have eczema, psoriasis or open skin on the scalp, wait, and if you have reacted to hair chemicals before, be cautious. The NHS has a clear page on contact dermatitis if you want to understand the risk. Check with your GP first if you have an ongoing scalp condition.
• Very short hair. Under about an inch, there is little to wind and the result is often fuzzy rather than curly.

How long a men’s perm lasts

The treated hair stays permed until it is cut off, although the curl tends to relax somewhat over the first weeks and with washing. What changes is the proportion of permed hair. Hair grows roughly half an inch a month, so new straight growth appears at the root while the permed lengths move outward and get trimmed away.

For a short-sided style with a textured top, most men find the perm looks its best for around two to four months. After that, either the top is cut short enough that most of the curl has gone, or the root growth is long enough that the shape looks uneven. Plan your cuts with that in mind: each trim removes some of the curl.

Aftercare that makes the difference

Most perm problems after the first week come from treating curly hair like straight hair.

• Wait before washing. Most stylists ask you to leave the hair unwashed for a day or two so the new shape settles. Follow whatever your stylist says.
• Wash less, condition more. Permed hair is drier. Two or three washes a week with a gentle shampoo, and conditioner every time, is a sensible starting point.
• Dry without rubbing. Blot with a towel or a cotton T-shirt. Rubbing creates frizz and pulls curls apart.
• Use a light cream, not a heavy wax. Curl cream or a light styling cream defines the pattern. Matte clays tend to flatten it. Our curly hair care guide covers washing and drying in more detail, and applies almost entirely to permed hair.
• Go easy on heat. A diffuser on low heat is fine. Straighteners undo the work and add damage.

Questions to ask before booking a perm

A good perm depends on the person doing it. Before you commit, ask:

1. How many men’s perms do you do, and can I see photos of your own work on short hair?
2. What rod size would you use for the look I want, and how will it look in three weeks rather than three hours?
3. Will you do a strand test, and do you need a skin test given my history?
4. Should my hair be cut before the perm, after, or both?
5. What will grow-out look like, and when would I need to decide whether to repeat it?

If the answers are vague, or nobody mentions the condition of your hair, keep looking.

Alternatives worth trying first

A perm is a commitment you cannot easily reverse. Before going chemical, it is worth trying a cut designed to show off whatever natural movement you already have, plus a few weeks with sea salt spray and a diffuser. Many men with straight-ish hair have more wave than they think, hidden by short lengths and heavy wax. Our guide on how to get wavy hair as a man walks through that route step by step.

Where a barber fits in

Even if the perm is done elsewhere, the shape around it matters as much as the curl. Every visit to the Highgate Cuts barbers starts with an assessment: the barber looks at your hair and what you want, then makes recommendations. For permed hair, that usually means keeping the sides and back neat with a fade or scissor work, and cutting the top dry or with care so the curl pattern is respected rather than flattened. Tell the barber when the perm was done and what product you use, and they will plan around it.

Questions we get asked

Does a perm damage your hair?

It changes the hair’s structure, so some dryness is normal. Done well on healthy hair with good aftercare, most men find it manageable. On bleached or already damaged hair, the risk of breakage is much higher.

Can you perm short hair?

Yes, if there is enough length to wind. Around two inches on top is a common minimum for visible texture.

How do I get rid of a perm I do not like?

Mostly by cutting it out over a few months. Chemical straightening on top of a fresh perm adds more damage and is rarely worth it.

Can I get a perm and a fade on the same day?

It is often better to perm first and have the sides cleaned up afterwards, so the barber can see how the top sits once curled.

For the cut around your texture, see the barber menu and services or start at the homepage.

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