Shaving the Tricky Bits: Chin, Jawline and Upper Lip
To shave the chin, jawline and upper lip cleanly, change the shape of the skin rather than chasing it with the razor. Pull the upper lip down over your teeth to flatten it, push the chin forward or tuck the lip in to tighten it, and tilt the head back to flatten the area under the jaw. Use short strokes of a centimetre or two, adjust your wrist constantly to keep the blade flat to the curve, and shave in passes: with the grain first, then across. These areas have the densest, most awkwardly angled hair on the face, which is why they cause most nicks and missed patches.
Why these areas are harder
The cheeks are broad and relatively flat. The chin, jaw and lip are none of those things. Three things combine:
- Curves. The jawline turns a corner and the chin is a dome. A fixed blade meets these at a constantly changing angle.
- Dense, coarse hair. The chin and moustache area usually have the thickest growth on the face, so they take more effort to cut.
- Mixed growth directions. Hair under the jaw and on the chin often grows sideways, in swirls or even upward. Shaving “down” everywhere goes against the grain in places without you realising.
Get the growth direction right and the skin set properly, and most of the difficulty goes away.
Map your growth first
Let two or three days of stubble grow. Then, slowly, rub your fingertips over each area in different directions. The smooth direction is with the grain; the rough direction is against it. Note it down or take a photo and draw arrows. It will feel fussy once, but you only need to do it one time. Our post on mapping your growth for shaving walks through it.
Most men find at least one surprise: often a patch under the jaw that grows towards the ear, or a whorl at the centre of the chin.
The upper lip
- Flatten the surface. Pull your upper lip down over your top teeth as if you were saying “mm” with the lip tucked. This turns a soft curve into a firm, flat area.
- Shave downwards first. For most men the moustache grows down. One pass with the grain.
- Work the corners separately. Under each nostril and at the corners of the mouth, hair angles outward. Use the tip or edge of the blade and very short strokes.
- Across the grain, carefully. A second pass from the centre outward on each side, after relathering.
- Skip against the grain if this area is prone to redness or bumps.
The skin under the nose is thin and sensitive. Many men find a single careful pass with the grain is enough here, even when they go closer elsewhere.
The chin
- Tighten the skin. Tuck your bottom lip over your bottom teeth, or push the chin forward. Both firm up the surface.
- Divide it into small sections. Left, centre and right, and top and underside. Treat the chin as four or five small areas, not one.
- Follow the curve with your wrist. As you move around the dome, rotate your wrist to keep the blade flat to the skin. This is where most cuts happen: the blade digs in when the angle opens up.
- Short strokes. One to two centimetres, rinsing often. The chin clogs a razor quickly.
- Check by touch. Run your fingers over it after each pass. Touch up only what needs it, with fresh lather.
The jawline and under the jaw
- Tilt your head back and to the side. This flattens the area under the jaw and stretches the skin naturally without pulling.
- Shave the line of the jaw in two halves. The face side and the neck side of the bone. Hair often changes direction right on the line.
- Watch for sideways growth. Under the jaw, follow your map. Shaving straight down here is a common cause of irritation.
- Do not stretch hard. Pulling the skin very tight makes hairs retract below the surface, which can lead to ingrown hairs. Firm, not taut.
The neck below this has its own rules. Our post on how to shave your neck covers it.
Quick reference
| Area | Set the skin by | Common mistake |
|---|---|---|
| Upper lip | Lip pulled down over teeth | Going against the grain on thin skin |
| Chin | Lower lip tucked, chin forward | Long strokes over the curve |
| Jawline | Head turned away | Treating both sides of the bone as one |
| Under the jaw | Head tilted back | Shaving straight down regardless of growth |
Missed patches and how to stop them
Missed patches nearly always come from the razor riding over a curve without full contact. Three habits fix most of them:
- Good light from the front, not overhead. Side shadows show stubble clearly.
- A finger check after each pass rather than relying on the mirror.
- A small, light razor or a single blade for detail work. Wide cartridge heads struggle around the chin and nostrils.
Resist going over the same spot five or six times. If a patch is stubborn, relather and use one or two careful strokes across the grain. Repeated dry strokes are the fastest route to razor burn.
Spots and sensitive skin
The chin is a common place for spots. Shave around raised spots rather than over them, use a clean, sharp blade and rinse it often. If you get repeated bumps after shaving, or a rash that does not settle, a pharmacist or GP can advise. The NHS page on ingrown hairs explains the usual cause.
Leaving some hair: goatees and moustaches
If you keep a goatee or moustache, these edges become the frame of your face, and a wobble shows. Trim the hair to length first, then shave the outline with the edge of the blade, working from the bare skin towards the beard so you never cut into it. For a crisp line, a barber will often finish with a straight razor.
Getting a professional reset
A hot towel shave at Highgate Cuts takes 20 to 30 minutes. Like every visit, it starts with an assessment: the barber looks at your skin, how your hair grows around the chin and jaw and how you usually shave, then makes recommendations. It is a good way to see where your own shave goes wrong. You can find it on the Highgate Cuts barber page.
Questions we get asked
Why do I always cut my chin?
Usually because the blade angle opens up as it moves around the curve. Shorter strokes and turning the wrist with the curve fix most of it.
Should I shave my upper lip up or down?
With the grain first, which for most men is down. Across or upward only if your skin tolerates it.
How do I stop missing spots under my jaw?
Tilt your head back, use side lighting and check by touch after each pass.
Is an electric shaver easier for the chin?
Often, yes. Small circular movements with a rotary shaver suit curves well.
See shave and beard services on the barber page, or start at the homepage. For prices, see the barber menu or email us.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
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The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
