Slicked Back Hair for Men: Getting It Right Without the Grease
A good slicked back style needs three things: enough length on top to reach the crown, usually at least 10 to 12cm at the front; sides kept short or tapered so the shape stays narrow; and a modest amount of the right product applied to damp hair, then set with a hairdryer. The greasy, helmet-like version comes from too much product on hair that hasn’t been dried into place. Done properly, a slick back looks tidy rather than oily, moves slightly, and holds through a working day. Below is what to ask your barber for, how to choose a finish, and a routine that takes about two minutes.
Is it the right style for your hair?
Slicked back hair suits more men than people think, but some hair makes it easier.
- Straight to slightly wavy, medium thickness: the easiest. It lies back naturally and holds with light product.
- Thick or coarse: works very well but needs a stronger product and good drying, or it lifts at the crown by lunchtime.
- Fine: possible, but a flat, glossy slick can make the scalp visible. A looser, matte version with a little volume is more flattering.
- Curly: a tight slick takes real effort. A textured, swept-back version that keeps some curl is more realistic day to day.
- Receding at the temples: a fully slicked style exposes the hairline. A slightly side-swept version, or one with height at the front, hides more.
Watch for a double crown or a strong whorl at the back. It can make hair at the crown stand up whatever you do; leaving a bit more weight there usually helps.
What to ask your barber for
A slick back is as much a cut as a styling choice. The barber needs to know you plan to wear it back, because weight is distributed differently from a cut you push forward or to the side.
The top
Length should increase slightly from crown to front, so the front has enough reach to lie back over the head. Ask for it to be taken back with scissors rather than heavily texturised; too many short layers and the hair pokes up through the slick.
The sides
Three common choices:
| Sides | Look | Upkeep |
|---|---|---|
| Scissor-cut, tapered | Classic, softer, office-friendly | Every four to six weeks |
| Fade | Sharper, more contrast | Every two to four weeks to stay crisp |
| Disconnected undercut | Bold, clear line between top and sides | Every two to three weeks |
The undercut version is popular because there is no bulk at the sides to fight the slick, but it looks quite different growing out. Our post on the undercut for men goes into the disconnected and blended versions.
At Highgate Cuts, every visit starts with an assessment: the barber looks at your hair, how it grows, and what you want it to do, then recommends a length and a side option to match. Bring a reference photo if you have one. You can see our scissor cuts and fades in Highgate for what the team offers.
Choosing your finish
The product decides whether the style looks polished or relaxed.
- High shine: a pomade, the traditional choice. Water-based is easier to wash out; oil-based holds coarse hair longer and can be re-combed all day. Our comparison of water-based vs oil-based pomade covers the trade-offs.
- Natural or low shine: a cream or light paste. Less formal, moves more, still holds a direction.
- Matte: a clay. Good on fine hair because it adds some grip and bulk, and it looks lived-in rather than set.
- Before any of these: a pre-styler or tonic on damp hair helps the main product grip and reduces the amount you need. See grooming tonic and pre-styler.
As a rule, the more formal the setting, the more shine people tend to choose. For a working week in N6, many men settle on a low-shine cream that looks tidy at nine and still reasonable at seven.
The two-minute method
- Start towel-damp. Not dripping, not dry.
- Add a pre-styler if you use one, combing it through.
- Blow dry backwards. Hairdryer on medium heat, comb or brush pulling the hair straight back from the hairline, nozzle pointing in the same direction. Concentrate on the roots at the front. This is what makes it hold. Hair dried into position stays there; hair forced back with product alone springs forward.
- Finish with a cool shot to set the shape.
- Warm a small amount of product in your palms. Start with about a fingertip; you can always add.
- Apply from the back forwards, then rake through to the ends with your fingers.
- Comb into place. Fine teeth for a sleek finish; wide teeth or fingers for texture.
If you skip the dryer, the style will still work with an oil-based pomade, which holds on wet or damp hair, but it will look wetter and heavier.
Why it goes greasy, and how to fix it
- Too much product. The usual culprit. Halve it and blow dry first.
- Product on the scalp. Keep it on the hair; on the scalp it looks oily within hours.
- Not washing it out. Layering product on yesterday’s gives a heavy, flat look. Wash properly, especially with oil-based pomade.
- Oily hair underneath. If your hair gets greasy fast, a matte product disguises it better than a glossy one.
- Hair too long at the sides. Bulk above the ears pushes outward and widens the shape. A trim fixes more than a product change.
One more thing: if you notice redness, itching or spots where the product meets your forehead, stop using it and try something gentler. Reactions to hair products are a form of contact dermatitis, and a pharmacist can advise.
Keeping it sharp between cuts
A slick back with tapered sides looks good for around a month; with a fade or undercut, the sides soften within two or three weeks. Length on top is more forgiving, but once the front starts falling forward over the forehead during the day, the weight needs taking out. Booking your next appointment before you leave is the easiest way to keep the shape from drifting.
Questions we get asked
How long does hair need to be to slick back?
Roughly 10 to 12cm at the front for a full slick, a little less for a shorter, textured version.
Can I slick back hair without product?
Briefly, using a dryer. It won’t hold for a day without something.
Does slicking hair back cause hair loss?
Combing hair back doesn’t. Very tight styles pulled hard every day can stress the hairline over time, so keep it relaxed.
Is a slick back professional enough for the office?
Yes, especially with tapered sides and a low-shine finish. Ask for that at your next haircut on Archway Road.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
Visit The Highgate House · The barbers
The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
