The Steps Haircut: The 90s Layered Look and How It Is Cut Today
A steps haircut is a cut where the top is noticeably longer than the sides and the change between the two is left visible, as a “step”, rather than blended away. In its 1990s form the sides were often clippered short, the top was left long enough to fall over them, and the line where one met the other was obvious when the hair moved. Today’s version is usually softer: the sides are kept a little longer, the top is layered with scissors so it falls naturally, and the step is suggested rather than stark. It suits men with medium-length, reasonably thick hair who are happy to style it for a minute or two in the morning.
Where the steps came from
The steps sat alongside the curtains haircut as one of the defining looks of British schools and Saturday-night queues in the mid-90s. The two were often combined: a centre parting with the top falling either side, over sides cut much shorter underneath. Barbers at the time tended to cut it with clippers on the sides and a quick freehand on top, which is why so many school photos show a slightly helmet-like line around the head.
The name describes exactly what you see: two levels of hair with a step between them, often visible at the temples and above the ears.
How the modern version differs
| 1990s steps | Today’s steps | |
|---|---|---|
| Sides | Short clipper grade, often uniform | Longer, scissor-cut or a soft taper |
| The step | A hard, visible line | A gentle shelf that shows when the hair moves |
| Top | One length, heavy | Layered and textured so it moves |
| Parting | Centre, often gelled | Centre or off-centre, matte finish |
| Back | Squared off | Tapered or left natural |
The big change is weight. The 90s top was often a solid curtain of hair. Now the barber will usually take weight out from inside the top with point-cutting or texturising, so the hair sits lighter and falls apart into pieces rather than sitting as one block. That is what stops it looking like a costume.
Who suits a steps haircut
- Medium to thick hair. The step needs enough hair on top to fall over the sides. Fine hair can work, but the step tends to look sparse.
- Straight or gently wavy hair. These show the layered fall best. Curly hair can carry a version of it, but the step reads differently.
- Oval, long or angular faces. The length either side softens strong angles. On a very round face, keep the sides a little tighter and avoid too much width at the temples.
- Men growing their hair out. It is a useful stage on the way to a longer cut, because the shorter sides keep things tidy while the top builds length. Our piece on medium-length hairstyles covers what comes next.
Cowlicks at the front or crown are worth mentioning to your barber. A strong cowlick at the front can fight a centre parting, and the barber may suggest moving the parting slightly.
What to ask your barber
Every visit at Highgate Cuts begins with an assessment: the barber looks at your hair, how it grows and how you wear it, then makes recommendations. To get the most from that conversation, it helps to arrive knowing a few things.
- How visible you want the step. “Soft, so it only shows when my hair moves” is very different from “a clear 90s line”.
- Where you part it. Centre, slightly off-centre or not at all. This decides how the top is layered.
- How long the top should reach. Eyebrows, cheekbones or just above the ears are useful reference points.
- What happens at the back. Natural, tapered or squared. A natural back grows out best.
- How much time you will spend styling it. If the answer is “almost none”, the barber will cut more texture in so it sits on its own.
A photo helps, especially if you find one with similar hair to yours. Our barbers in Highgate can then tell you honestly whether your hair will do the same.
Styling it at home
The modern steps look is meant to be low-shine and a little undone.
- Towel dry, then blow-dry the top roughly in the direction of the parting, using your fingers rather than a brush.
- A small amount of sea salt spray before drying adds grip on finer hair.
- Finish with a pea-sized amount of matte paste or clay, worked through your fingers first so it spreads thinly.
- Avoid wet-look gels unless you are deliberately going for full 1996.
Mistakes that make it look dated
The line between a considered nod to the 90s and an accidental school photo is narrower than you might think. The usual culprits:
- Sides too short for the top. A grade one under a long top creates a mushroom shape. Keeping the sides at scissor length, or a longer clipper guard blended upwards, softens it.
- A top left heavy. Without weight removed from inside, the hair sits as a single flap rather than moving.
- A parting that fights your growth. Forcing a centre parting over a crown or front cowlick that wants to go sideways means the hair separates in the wrong place by lunchtime.
- Too much product. Shine and stiffness are what made the original look so fixed. A small amount of matte product keeps it current.
Keeping it in shape
The step itself is the part that loses definition first. As the sides grow, they catch up with the top and the line disappears. Most men find the cut looks its best for four to six weeks, then needs the sides and back tidying. The top can often go longer between cuts, which is useful if you are growing it. If you are not sure whether layers suit your hair at all, our guide to layered haircuts for men covers when they help and when they hurt.
Questions we get asked
What is the difference between steps and curtains?
Curtains describes the top: long hair parted in the middle and falling either side. Steps describes the visible jump in length between top and sides. Many 90s cuts were both.
Is a steps haircut the same as an undercut?
They are related. An undercut usually has much shorter, often clippered sides with a sharp disconnection. The modern steps cut is softer and the sides are longer.
How long does my hair need to be?
Enough on top to fall over the sides, usually several inches at the front. If you are starting from short, it is a few months of growing.
How much does it cost?
Prices are not published yet. See the barber menu or email us and we will tell you.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
Visit The Highgate House · The barbers
The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
