How to Get Textured Hair: A Practical Guide for Men
Textured hair, in the styling sense, means hair that sits in separated, uneven pieces with visible movement, rather than lying flat in one smooth sheet. You get it from three things working together: a cut that removes weight and leaves the ends uneven, drying that builds lift at the root, and a small amount of matte product to hold the separation. Product alone rarely does it. If the cut is blunt and heavy, no amount of clay will stop it collapsing by lunchtime. The order of importance is roughly cut, then drying, then product, and most men try them in exactly the reverse order.
Step one: the cut does most of the work
Straight hair cut bluntly falls in a solid block. Each hair is the same length as its neighbour, so they lie together. Texture comes from making the hairs different lengths, so they stack on and support each other instead of lying flat. Barbers have several ways of doing that.
- Point cutting: snipping into the ends vertically with the tips of the scissors, rather than across. It breaks up a hard line into a softer, broken edge. We explain it in more detail in what point cutting is and why barbers do it.
- Thinning or texturising scissors: scissors with teeth on one blade that remove a proportion of hair from a section. Used carefully, they take out bulk; used heavily, they leave frizzy short hairs, so it is a judgement call.
- Slide or razor cutting: running an open blade or razor along a section to taper the ends. Effective on thick hair, less so on fine or very curly hair.
- Layering: shorter lengths on top of longer ones, so the top sits up and has movement.
What to ask for
Do not just say “textured”. Tell the barber what you want the hair to do: “I want it to look messy and separated without much product”, or “it goes flat by midday, can you take weight out of the top?” Mention how long you will spend styling in the morning. During the assessment that starts every visit at Highgate Cuts, the barber will look at your density, the direction of growth and any cowlicks, then recommend how much texture your hair can take. The cuts most built around texture are the textured crop, the messy quiff and the longer layered cuts; you can see what we offer on the barber service page.
The length question
Texture needs some length to show. Under about 3cm on top, hair tends to stand straight up or lie flat, with little room for movement in between. Somewhere between 4cm and 8cm is the most forgiving range. If you have been wearing a very short top, it may take a few weeks of growth before a textured style is possible.
Step two: drying for lift
How you dry your hair sets its shape for the rest of the day. Product applied to hair that has dried flat against the head is fighting an uphill battle.
- Towel dry gently. Pat and squeeze, do not rub hard. Rubbing roughens the cuticle and causes frizz, which is not the same as texture.
- Apply a pre-styler while damp. Sea salt spray is the usual choice: a few sprays through the roots and mid-lengths. It adds grip and a slightly gritty feel. Our post on using sea salt spray covers quantities and the mistakes that leave hair crunchy. Light mousse works too, particularly on fine hair.
- Blow-dry upwards and against the fall. Lift the hair at the roots with your fingers and point the dryer in the opposite direction to where it naturally lies. Use medium heat, keep the dryer moving, and finish with a blast of cool air to set the shape.
- Do not aim for perfect. Roughly dried hair with lift is the right starting point. Smooth, brushed-down hair is the wrong one.
If you never use a hairdryer, you can still get some of this by pushing the hair up and back with your fingers as it air dries, but the result will be softer and less durable.
Step three: product, and how little of it
The products that build texture all share one property: a matte or low-shine finish. Shine makes hair look wet and clumped, which reads as slick rather than textured.
| Your hair | Best product | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Fine or thinning | Texture powder or light paste | Adds grip and volume without weighing hair down |
| Thick, straight | Matte clay | Strong enough hold to separate heavy hair into pieces |
| Wavy | Cream or light paste | Defines the natural movement rather than overriding it |
| Coarse or wiry | Fibre paste | Flexible hold that tames without flattening |
How to apply it
- Start with an amount the size of a fingertip. You can always add more.
- Warm it between your palms until it is almost invisible on your hands.
- Work it in from the back to the front, through the roots first, then the ends.
- Finish by twisting or pinching small sections between your fingertips. This is where the separation actually comes from.
- Do not comb it afterwards. A comb puts the hair back into one smooth sheet.
Powder goes on differently: shake a small amount directly onto dry roots, then rub it in with your fingertips. It is very effective and very easy to overdo; too much leaves hair dull and slightly grey-looking.
Mistakes that flatten texture
- Too much product. The commonest one by far. Excess weighs hair down and makes it clump into a few thick strands. If your hair looks greasy by the afternoon, halve the amount.
- Styling wet hair. Clay and paste on wet hair goes on unevenly and dries flat. Dry first.
- Over-washing. Freshly washed, conditioned hair is slippery and hard to texture. Many men find their hair styles better on the second day. That does not mean skipping washes for a week, just not washing every single morning if your scalp does not need it.
- Heavy conditioner on the top. If you use one, keep it to the mid-lengths and ends, and rinse it thoroughly.
- Leaving it too long between cuts. Once the top gets heavy, the texture cut into it disappears. Every four to six weeks keeps the weight under control for most people, and a regular slot with the Highgate Cuts team makes that easy to stick to.
Can every hair type look textured?
Most can, but the starting point differs. Thick straight hair is the most responsive; it holds separation well once the weight is out. Fine hair can look textured but needs more help from drying and a lighter product, and less thinning in the cut, since it does not have bulk to spare. Wavy hair often has natural texture already, and the job is mainly to stop over-styling it. Curly and Afro hair have their own texture by definition; the approach there is about definition and shape rather than adding texture, which is a different subject altogether.
Questions we get asked
Can I get textured hair without a hairdryer?
You can get some, using sea salt spray and finger-drying upwards, but a dryer gives far more lift and makes it last through the day.
Is texture powder bad for your hair?
Used in small amounts and washed out regularly, it is fine for most people. The usual problem is build-up from using too much.
How long does a texturised cut last?
The effect stays visible for about four to six weeks. After that the ends even out and the top gets heavy again.
Will thinning scissors damage my hair?
They do not damage the hair itself, but too much thinning can leave short, sticking-up pieces as it grows. A barber who knows your hair will use them sparingly.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
Visit The Highgate House · The barbers
The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
