The Frohawk: An Afro Mohawk With Clean, Tapered Sides
A frohawk is a mohawk shape cut on afro or tightly curled hair: a strip of natural texture running from the front hairline to the crown or nape, with the sides taken down short. Unlike a classic punk mohawk, the sides are rarely shaved bare. They are usually faded or tapered so the strip blends in, and the most popular versions use a burst fade that curves around the ear. You need roughly two to four inches of hair on top for the shape to read clearly, and the cut looks best when the strip is shaped into a deliberate outline rather than simply left long. It is bold, but with soft edges it is far more wearable than people expect.
How the frohawk differs from similar cuts
The frohawk sits between several cuts that get confused:
A mohawk usually means shaved sides and a long, often spiked strip. On straight hair it needs product to stand up. Afro hair stands up on its own, which is part of the frohawk’s appeal.
A faux hawk keeps hair at the sides and simply pushes the top into a ridge. It is subtler and grows out more easily.
A high-top or short afro with a fade keeps the full width of the top. The frohawk narrows it into a strip.
In short, the frohawk is defined by the width of the strip and how the sides fall away from it.
Choosing the sides
Side option | What it looks like | Suits |
|---|---|---|
Burst fade | A fade that curves around the ear, leaving length at the back | The classic frohawk; a strip that runs all the way down the back |
Taper | Short only at the temples and neckline, longer elsewhere | A softer, office-friendly version |
Skin fade | Sides blended down to the skin | A sharper contrast; needs more frequent upkeep |
Low or mid fade | Fade begins lower on the head | More hair at the sides, so a wider, gentler strip |
The burst fade is the most common choice because its curve mirrors the line of the strip. Our explainer on the burst fade shows how that curve is built.
How much hair you need
For a recognisable frohawk, aim for around two inches on top as a minimum and three to four for a fuller strip. Remember that afro hair shrinks considerably as it dries, so the length when stretched is greater than what you see. Our post on afro hair shrinkage explains why a cut can look shorter once it dries.
If you are starting from a short crop, there is a useful shortcut: keep the sides faded at each visit and let only the top grow. You can wear a shorter, low frohawk within a couple of months and let it build height from there, rather than going through a shapeless in-between stage.
What happens in the chair
Every visit at Highgate Cuts begins with an assessment. The barber looks at your hair, your curl pattern, the shape of your head and where the hair grows thickest, then talks through recommendations before cutting. For a frohawk that matters, because the width of the strip should suit your head, not a photo.
A typical sequence:
Pick out or shape the top. The hair is lifted so the barber can see the true length and density.
Mark the strip. Usually about the width between the outer edges of the eyebrows, adjusted for head shape. Too narrow looks severe; too wide loses the mohawk effect.
Build the sides. Clippers bring the sides down to the chosen fade or taper, curving around the ears for a burst.
Blend. The transition from short sides to the full strip is softened so there is no hard step unless you ask for one.
Shape the strip. Scissors or clippers over comb sculpt the top into a smooth arc, often slightly higher at the crown or front depending on preference.
Finish the edges. Hairline at the front, around the ears and neckline.
More on our cutting is on the Highgate Cuts barber page.
What to tell your barber
Which side option you want, and how high the fade should start.
How wide you want the strip, or whether you would like a recommendation.
Whether the strip should run down to the nape or stop at the crown.
Whether you want the front hairline sharpened or left natural. A very sharp line-up can push the hairline back over time if done aggressively; our post on pushed-back hairlines explains why.
How often you can realistically come back.
Keeping the shape between cuts
The sides lose crispness first. A fade starts to blur after two to three weeks, so most people with a frohawk book every two to four weeks, with tapers lasting a little longer than skin fades.
The strip needs moisture to keep its shape and avoid breakage:
Use a leave-in conditioner or light moisturiser on damp hair.
Pick out the strip gently from the root with an afro comb, rather than dragging through the ends.
Sleep on a satin pillowcase or wear a durag or bonnet to reduce friction.
Keep sides clean and dry; a little oil on the scalp can help if it feels tight after a fade.
If you see bumps or irritation on the faded sides after cutting, it may be razor bumps, which are common on tightly curled hair. The NHS guide to ingrown hairs gives sensible advice. Leaving a little length on the sides rather than going to bare skin often helps, and it is worth mentioning during the assessment at your next fade or taper at Highgate Cuts. The Highgate House homepage has directions to Archway Road.
Questions we get asked
Is a frohawk professional enough for work?
A lower, tapered frohawk with a neat strip usually is. Higher, sharper versions make more of a statement.
How long should the hair on top be?
At least two inches for a clear shape, three to four for a fuller strip.
Can I do a frohawk on locs or twists?
Yes, the same idea works with locs or twists along the strip and tapered sides. The barber would shape the sides around them.
How often do I need a cut?
Every two to four weeks to keep the sides clean, with the top shaped every few visits.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
Visit The Highgate House · The barbers
The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
