How to Spike Your Hair in a Way That Looks Current, Not 2003
To spike your hair in a modern way, you need 3 to 6 cm of length on top, a cut with texture already in it, and a matte product rather than wet-look gel. Start with dry or barely damp hair, blow dry it upwards for lift, then rub a pea-sized amount of matte paste or clay between your palms until it disappears and work it in from the roots up. Use your fingertips to pinch small sections into loose, uneven points, and leave some pieces lower than others. The giveaway of a dated spike is uniformity: every point the same height, rock solid and shiny. Today’s version is softer, piecey and a little messy on purpose.
Why spikes looked so bad the first time
The early-2000s spike was built from three things: hair cut bluntly to one length, a large amount of firm, high-shine gel, and a lot of effort to make every point stand the same height. Often finished with bleached tips. It was meant to look sharp and ended up looking glued.
The current version keeps the upward direction but changes everything else. The cut is textured so the hair separates naturally. The product is matte and flexible. And the points vary in height and direction so it looks like hair, not a sculpture. If you like the idea of texture without the points, our guide to getting textured hair is worth a look.
Start with the right cut
No product will rescue a cut that is the wrong shape for spikes. Ask your barber for:
- Length on top of about 3 to 6 cm. Shorter and the hair will not stand in separate pieces; longer and it starts to collapse under its own weight unless you use a strong product.
- Texture through the top, usually by point cutting or slide cutting, so the hair separates into pieces by itself.
- Shorter sides, which can be a fade, a taper or a scissor cut. Short sides make height on top look deliberate.
- A slightly longer front if you want a forward-leaning, more modern spike.
Every visit at Highgate Cuts begins with an assessment, where the barber looks at your hair and what you want and recommends an approach. Say you want to wear it spiked so the texturing can be planned for it. You can see the services on the Highgate Cuts barbers page.
Choosing the right product
| Product | Finish | For spikes? |
|---|---|---|
| Matte clay | Matte, strong hold, adds grip | The best all-rounder, especially for fine or straight hair |
| Matte paste | Low shine, medium hold, flexible | Good for soft, piecey spikes on medium to thick hair |
| Fibre or wax | Low to medium shine, stringy texture | Good for defining individual points |
| Gel | Shiny, hard | Avoid unless used very lightly with a matte product on top |
| Sea salt spray | Matte, light | A useful pre-styler for grip and volume |
For more on the differences, read our guide to clay, wax, pomade or paste.
The two-minute method
- Start with dry or almost dry hair. Most matte products do not hold well on wet hair.
- Optional pre-styler. Two or three sprays of sea salt spray or a light grooming tonic at the roots.
- Blow dry upwards. Use your fingers to lift the hair at the root while drying, aiming the air from underneath. Thirty seconds is enough. This creates lift that product alone cannot.
- Warm the product. Take a pea-sized amount and rub it between your palms and fingers until it is almost invisible.
- Work it in from the roots. Rake your fingers upwards through the hair, back to front, so the product reaches the base and not just the tips.
- Pinch and twist. Take small sections between your thumb and fingertips and twist them slightly upwards into points. Vary the size and direction.
- Break it up. Run your fingertips lightly over the top to soften any pieces that look too even.
Common mistakes and how to fix them
- Too much product. The hair clumps, looks greasy and falls flat by lunch. Start with less than you think; add more only if needed.
- Applying to wet hair. The product dilutes and loses hold. Dry first.
- Uniform spikes. The most dated look of all. Make some pieces shorter, angle others slightly forward.
- Skipping the blow dry. Without lift at the root, the spikes droop within an hour.
- Styling only the tips. Product needs to sit at the base to hold the hair up.
- Using gel for maximum hold. It gives a crunchy, wet look. If you need extra hold, finish with a light mist of flexible hairspray.
Spikes for different hair types
Fine hair
Use a clay and a pre-styler; both add grip and thickness. Keep the top on the shorter side so it holds up.
Thick hair
Paste works well. Ask your barber to remove some weight on top so the spikes do not look bulky.
Wavy hair
Waves give spikes natural movement. Blow dry thoroughly to control the wave, then use a paste for loose, piecey texture.
Curly hair
Traditional spikes are difficult with curly hair, but short, defined curly texture on top gives a similar upward effect with much less fighting. Our piece on styling curly hair covers it.
Keeping it looking good
Spiky styles depend on the cut staying in shape. As the top grows past 6 cm, it starts to flop, and the sides lose the contrast that makes height look intentional. Most people need a trim every three to five weeks to keep the style working. Wash the product out properly at the end of the day, particularly clays, which can build up on the scalp; a gentle shampoo is fine. If your scalp becomes itchy or flaky, the NHS guidance on dandruff covers common causes.
Questions we get asked
Can I spike short hair?
Yes, if it is at least about 3 cm on top. Shorter than that, aim for a textured, slightly lifted finish instead of points.
What is the best product for spiky hair?
For most men, a matte clay. It gives strong hold without shine and adds grip to fine hair.
How do I stop my spikes falling flat?
Blow dry upwards first, use less product but get it to the roots, and finish with a light, flexible hairspray if needed.
Are spikes back in fashion?
Softer, textured spiky styles are common again, especially with a fade. Ask about the cut at your next visit to our barbers on Archway Road.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
Visit The Highgate House · The barbers
The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
