How to Shave Your Head Smoothly, Step by Step
To shave your head smoothly, clip it down to stubble first, then shave in the shower or straight after one, with a sharp razor, a proper lather and light pressure. Work in sections: top first with the grain, then the sides, then the back and neck, rinsing the blade often. Go across or against the grain only on a second pass, and only once your scalp is used to it. Finish with cold water and an unscented moisturiser. The first shave takes 20 to 30 minutes and feels clumsy; within a few weeks most men get it down to ten. Below is the full method, plus how to deal with the bumps, nicks and missed patches that catch everyone at the start.
Before you start: clip it down
Never take a razor straight to a full head of hair. It clogs instantly, tugs, and leaves you with a red, sore scalp. Use clippers with no guard, or the shortest guard you have, and take everything down to stubble. If you are coming from a longer cut, a barber can do this part for you in a few minutes, and set a clean line at the neck and around the ears while they are at it. Many men have their first full head shave done professionally, then maintain it at home.
If you are still deciding whether to go bald by choice, read should you shave your head first. This post assumes you have decided.
What you need
Clippers for the initial clip-down and for the in-between weeks if you skip a shave.
A razor. A multi-blade cartridge is the easiest to learn with. A safety razor gives a closer, less irritating shave on many men but takes practice, especially around the back of the head. Dedicated head-shaving razors with a palm grip make the back easier to reach. Our comparison of safety razors vs cartridges covers the trade-offs.
Shaving cream or soap, ideally lathered with a brush. Gel works, but a brush-built lather gives better glide on the scalp.
Pre-shave oil (optional), helpful if your scalp is sensitive.
A hand mirror to check the back, at least for the first few weeks.
An unscented moisturiser or alcohol-free aftershave balm.
The shave, step by step
Soften the hair. Shave during or straight after a hot shower. Two or three minutes of warm water on stubble makes it far easier to cut. If you cannot shower, hold a hot, damp towel on your head for a couple of minutes.
Map the grain. Run your hand over your scalp. Where it feels smooth, you are going with the grain; where it feels rough, against it. On most heads the hair grows forwards on top, downwards at the back and sides, and in a swirl at the crown. Knowing this before you start prevents most irritation.
Lather well. Apply a thick, even layer. Do one section at a time if the lather dries out quickly.
Shave the top first, with the grain, using short strokes and almost no pressure. Let the blade do the work. Rinse it after every two or three strokes.
Do the sides, working down towards the ears. Fold the ear forward with your free hand to reach behind it.
Do the back last. Tilt your head forward and shave downwards. Use the hand mirror, or simply feel for rough patches with your fingertips.
Take care at the crown. The hair grows in several directions here, so shorten your strokes and follow the swirl.
Re-lather and second pass (optional). For a closer finish, re-lather and shave across the grain. Only go against the grain once your scalp has had a few weeks to settle, and skip it altogether if you get bumps.
Rinse with cold water and pat dry with a clean towel.
Check by touch. Run your palm over your whole scalp, especially behind the ears and at the nape. Touch is more reliable than the mirror.
Moisturise. A thin layer of unscented moisturiser or balm. Scalps get dry, especially in winter and in a heated office.
How often to shave
This depends on how smooth you want to look and how quickly your hair grows. Most men settle on every day or every other day for a gleaming finish, or two or three times a week for a slight shadow. Shaving every day is often easier on the skin than you would expect, because there is less stubble for the blade to drag through. If your scalp is irritated, though, give it a day or two off.
Frequency | Look | Suits |
|---|---|---|
Daily | Completely smooth | Fast-growing or dark hair, where shadow shows within a day |
Every 2 to 3 days | Smooth with faint shadow by day three | Most men, and sensitive skin |
Weekly, with clippers between | Close buzz most of the week | Men who want the low-maintenance version |
Common problems and how to fix them
Red bumps
Small red bumps after shaving are usually irritation or ingrown hairs, most common on the back of the head and the neck. Shave with the grain only, use a fresh blade, avoid stretching the skin too tight, and stop pressing. If you have curly or coarse hair, ingrown hairs are more likely, and shaving with the grain is essential. Our guide to razor bumps on Black skin has more on this. If bumps become painful, pus-filled or keep coming back, see a pharmacist or your GP; the British Association of Dermatologists has a useful page on folliculitis, which is what persistent infected bumps often are.
Nicks
The scalp bleeds more than you expect from a tiny cut, because it has a good blood supply. Rinse with cold water and press firmly with a clean tissue for a minute or two. Nicks usually come from moles, scars or the bony ridge at the back of the skull. Feel for those before you start and shave around them with extra care.
Missed patches
Almost always behind the ears and at the nape. Build a routine that ends with a palm check of those areas every time.
Dull blades
A scalp is a lot more surface area than a face, so blades wear faster. If the shave starts to tug, change the blade. That is usually sooner than you would change it for your face alone.
Looking after the scalp afterwards
A shaved scalp is newly exposed skin. Two habits matter most. First, moisturise daily, because a bare scalp loses its natural protection from hair and dries out. Second, protect it from the sun. A freshly shaved head burns quickly, even on a bright day in March, so wear a hat or use a broad-spectrum sunscreen, as the NHS recommends for any exposed skin. Our guide to shaved head care covers the daily routine in more depth.
When a barber is worth it
A home shave is entirely doable. A barber is worth it in two situations: the very first clip-down, when getting the shape and neckline right sets you up, and when your scalp is irritated and you want advice before carrying on. At Highgate Cuts every visit starts with an assessment of your hair and what you need, so if you are thinking of going bald, email to ask what the barber can do for you and they will recommend the right approach. You can see our clipper work and hot towel shaves on the barber services page; a hot towel shave on the face takes 20 to 30 minutes. For pricing, see the barber menu on the Highgate Cuts page or email us.
Questions we get asked
Should I shave my head with or against the grain?
With the grain for the first pass, always. Go across or against only on a second pass and only if your skin tolerates it.
Is an electric shaver good for shaving your head?
Rotary head shavers are quick and kinder to sensitive skin, but rarely as smooth as a razor. Many men use one during the week and a razor at weekends.
How long does it take to shave your head?
The first time, 20 to 30 minutes including the clip-down. With practice, most men get a maintenance shave down to around ten minutes.
Why is my scalp itchy after shaving?
Usually dryness or mild irritation. Moisturise, shave with the grain and change the blade more often. If itching persists, speak to a pharmacist.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
Visit The Highgate House · The barbers
The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
