The Modern Mullet: How to Wear It Without Going Too Far
The modern mullet is a cut with textured length on top, shorter, tapered sides and a back that is left a few centimetres longer so it rests on or just above the collar. What separates it from the 1980s version is proportion: the step between the sides and the back is blended, not abrupt, and the back is longer by a hand’s width at most, not a forearm. To wear it without going too far, keep the back to collar length, choose a taper over a high skin fade, and keep the top textured rather than flat. Done that way it reads as a relaxed, slightly longer cut rather than a statement. Here is how to choose the version, grow into it and keep it in shape.
What makes a mullet “modern”
Every mullet has the same basic idea: shorter at the front and sides, longer at the back. The difference between a cut people find stylish and one they find comic is mostly in three details.
- Blending. The original often had a hard line where the short sides met the long back. Modern versions use a taper or soft graduation so the transition is gradual.
- Texture. The top is cut with point cutting or a razor so it moves, rather than sitting flat or permed.
- Restraint at the back. The back is usually left at four to ten centimetres longer than the sides, enough to be seen from the side, not enough to look like a separate hairstyle.
Many of the versions you see today sit somewhere between a mullet and a wolf cut, which shares the longer back but adds heavier, shaggier layering through the top.
The main versions, from quiet to bold
| Version | Sides | Back | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Subtle or “business” mullet | Scissor cut, tidy over the ears | Just touching the collar | Men who want a little length without anyone at work commenting |
| Taper mullet | Low taper at the temples and around the ears | Collar length, textured | The most wearable default; suits straight, wavy and curly hair |
| Burst fade mullet | Fade curving around the ear only | Left long through the nape | Thicker hair and a sharper look |
| Curly mullet | Tapered short | Curls left to fall naturally | Curly and coily hair, where the shape forms itself |
The burst fade version is the one most often seen on footballers. It works well, but it is more distinctive. If you are unsure, begin with a taper mullet, which is easy to soften into an ordinary longer cut later. Our guide to the burst fade covers that shape on its own.
Does it suit you?
The mullet is more forgiving than its reputation suggests, but a few things help:
- Hair with some movement. Wavy and curly hair makes the back look intentional. Very fine, flat, straight hair can make the back look thin and stringy.
- A decent neckline. The longer back draws the eye to the nape. If your hair grows low and in different directions there, the barber will need to shape it.
- Face shape. Length at the back and volume on top lengthen a round face. On a long, narrow face, keeping some width at the sides rather than fading them tight balances it.
- Your setting. In most London offices now, a subtle or taper mullet goes unremarked. In very formal client-facing roles, the business version is the safe end of the range.
Growing into it
Unless your hair is already long, a mullet takes patience. The back needs to grow while the sides are kept short. A realistic plan:
- Stop cutting the back. Tell your barber you are growing into a mullet, so the nape is only tidied, never taken short.
- Keep the sides tidy every four to six weeks. Tapering the sides and around the ears while the back grows is what stops the in-between months looking unkempt.
- Shape the top as it grows. Point cutting or texturising stops the top becoming a heavy mop.
- Expect two to four months from a short cut to a recognisable mullet, depending on how long you want the back and how fast your hair grows. Our piece on how fast hair grows explains why it varies.
The awkward stage usually arrives around the six-week mark, when the back starts to flick out but has not yet settled. That is when most people give up. A tidy taper at the sides gets you through it.
What to ask for in the chair
Every visit to the Highgate Cuts barbers starts with an assessment: the barber looks at your hair and what you need, then makes recommendations. For a mullet, it helps to bring a photo and to be clear about these points:
- How long the back should be: on the collar, just above it, or past it.
- Taper, fade, or scissor-cut sides, and how high.
- Whether the top should be fringe-forward, pushed back or left to fall naturally.
- How much texture you want: a little movement or a shaggier finish.
- How much styling you are realistically willing to do each morning.
Photos taken from the side are much more useful than front-on shots, as the back is the whole point. Our guide to using reference photos explains what makes one helpful.
Styling it day to day
The modern mullet looks best slightly undone. Most men need no more than this:
- Towel dry, then apply a light sea salt spray or texture spray to damp hair.
- Rough dry with your fingers, or diffuse if your hair is curly.
- Add a small amount of matte paste or clay to the top only. Leave the back mostly product-free so it moves.
- Do not straighten or slick the back flat. That is where the cut starts to look dated.
Upkeep, and how to get out of it
A taper mullet holds its shape for around four to six weeks before the sides need tidying. The back can go longer between cuts, but neglected backs tend to grow heavier at the bottom, which is the look you want to avoid.
If you change your mind, it is easy to exit. A barber can take the back up to match the rest and turn it into a longer textured cut or a scissor-cut short back and sides in one visit, without needing to grow anything out.
Questions we get asked
Is the mullet still in fashion?
The softer, blended versions have settled into the mainstream and are worn well beyond any trend cycle, much like the crop did before them. The very long, flat 80s version is more of a novelty.
Can I have a mullet with thinning hair?
It is harder, because volume on top is part of the shape. A short, textured top with a modest back can still work if thinning is mild.
How long does my hair need to be to start?
The back needs at least a few centimetres more length than the sides. If your hair is already medium length, it can be shaped in one visit.
How do I book?
Email us and mention the style so we can plan the right time. You can see our men’s haircut services in Highgate, and find out about the rest of the building on The Highgate House homepage.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
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The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
