Haircuts for Thick Hair: Removing Bulk the Right Way
The best haircut for thick hair is one where the barber removes weight from inside the hair, not just length from the outside. Cut thick hair shorter without thinning it and it simply becomes a shorter, rounder block that puffs out at the sides within two weeks. Done properly, bulk is taken from the sides and the underneath with a tight taper or fade, and from the top with internal texturising such as point cutting, so the hair lies closer to the head and moves. Below: why thick hair misbehaves, the techniques that work, cuts that suit it, and what to say in the chair.
Why thick hair is hard to cut well
“Thick” covers two separate things, and it helps to know which you have. Density is how many hairs grow per square centimetre of scalp. Diameter is how coarse each individual hair is. Many men have both. High density means hair stacks on itself and pushes outwards; coarse strands are stiffer and resist lying flat.
The result is familiar: sides that stick out like wings by week two, a top that sits up in a dome rather than falling, a crown that will not settle, and a cut that looks good for about five days. The problem is rarely length. It is volume, and volume is controlled from inside the haircut.
How barbers actually remove bulk
Shorter, tighter sides
The simplest weight reduction is on the sides and back, where thick hair causes most trouble. A taper or fade that is tighter around the ears and at the nape takes the bulk away exactly where it pushes outwards. Even a conservative cut can carry the sides a grade shorter than you would choose for finer hair.
Removing weight underneath
On longer cuts, a barber can take bulk from the underneath layers at the sides and back while leaving the outer layer longer. The surface still looks full, but there is less hair beneath to push it out. This is particularly useful if you want to keep length.
Point cutting and texturising the top
Point cutting means cutting into the ends with the tips of the scissors, vertically, rather than straight across. It creates shorter and longer hairs within a section, which breaks up a heavy line and lets the hair move and interlock rather than sitting as a slab. Our post on point cutting explained goes into the technique itself.
Thinning scissors, used with restraint
Thinning scissors have teeth on one blade, so each cut takes only a proportion of the hairs. They are useful, but overused or used close to the root they leave short hairs that spring up through the longer ones, creating frizz and, ironically, more volume as they grow. Used mid-length to ends, sparingly, they help. Used as the whole strategy, they are why some men say thick hair “gets worse” after a thinning-out.
Scissor-over-comb and clipper-over-comb
For blending the sides into the top on dense hair, these techniques let the barber remove bulk gradually while keeping a soft shape, without the harsh line you can get from a single guard length.
Haircuts that suit thick hair
| Cut | Why it works on thick hair | What to watch |
|---|---|---|
| Textured crop | Short, heavily textured top uses the density for shape | Needs regular trims to stay sharp |
| Short back and sides | Removes bulk where it causes trouble; easy to keep | Ask for the top to be thinned, not just shortened |
| Fade with length on top | Strong contrast; thick hair holds a swept or quiffed top well | Sides grow out quickly on dense hair |
| Pompadour or swept-back | Thick hair gives natural volume and hold | Needs product and a blow-dry |
| Medium length, layered | Layers let the weight fall rather than stack | Must be debulked underneath or it turns triangular |
Cuts to approach with care: a blunt, one-length fringe (it sits like a shelf), very short all-over clipper cuts on coarse hair that grows outwards (it can stand up like a brush), and anything that relies on hair lying flat against the head with no support from the sides. If you want something sharp and textured, the textured crop is often the strongest choice for dense hair; for something more classic, the short back and sides adapts well.
What to tell your barber
- “My hair is thick and it puffs out at the sides after about X weeks.” The timeline tells the barber how much weight to remove.
- “I want weight taken out, not just length.” This one sentence changes the approach.
- “I’d rather you didn’t thin it close to the root.” Fair to say if thinning scissors have caused frizz before.
- How you style it. A man who uses a blow dryer and clay can carry more bulk than one who towel-dries and goes.
- Where it misbehaves. Crown, temples, behind the ears. Point to it.
At Highgate Cuts each visit opens with an assessment: the barber looks at your hair, how dense and coarse it is and how it grows, then recommends a cut and an approach to weight. You can read about our skin fades, scissor cuts and beard work before you book.
Styling and looking after thick hair at home
- Dry it in the direction you want it to sit. Thick hair sets as it dries. Leaving it to air-dry in whatever direction it falls is how it ends up flicking out.
- Use a product with grip but low shine. A matte clay or paste holds dense hair without making it look greasy. Avoid heavy gels, which often just add weight and clump. Our guide to clay, wax, pomade and paste breaks down the options.
- Condition the lengths. Coarse hair tends to be drier and feels softer and more manageable with conditioner.
- Keep the maintenance interval short. Thick hair outgrows its shape faster than fine hair. Three to four weeks is common for shorter cuts.
Mistakes we see
- Asking for “shorter” when you mean “less hair”. Short and heavy is still heavy.
- Thinning at home with thinning scissors. Uneven, often too close to the root, and hard to correct.
- Leaving it too long between cuts, so every appointment becomes a rescue rather than a refinement.
- Choosing a style from photos of men with fine hair, which will not sit the same way on yours.
Questions we get asked
Does thinning out thick hair make it grow back thicker?
No. Cutting does not change how hair grows from the follicle. What can happen is that short thinned pieces spring up through longer hair and make it look bulkier as they grow, which is why technique matters.
Is a fade better for thick hair?
Often, because it removes bulk where thick hair pushes out. A tapered scissor cut can do the same job more softly if you prefer.
How often should I cut thick hair?
Every three to five weeks for most short and medium cuts. Longer styles can go longer if weight is properly removed.
Can I keep length if my hair is very thick?
Yes, with weight removed underneath and layered through the lengths. Tell the barber you want to keep length and why, or email us to book a haircut at Highgate Cuts.
Book with The Highgate House
Ready for a proper cut? Email us at [email protected] with the service and the day that suits you, and we will come back to you with times.
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The Highgate House, Archway Road, Highgate, London N6.
